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Five century-old cafes not to be missed in Budapest

Central Kavehaz

Much more than a café, Centrál Kávéház is a true Budapest institution, the epicenter of the country’s literary and intellectual life. Opened in 1887, this iconic venue has seen poets Adi Endre and Denes Kostolani, among other great figures of the Hungarian avant-garde, sit at its tables. It also hosted the editorial meetings of the literary journal Newgate, a bi-weekly newspaper founded in 1908, whose printing office was just across the street. Now at the helm of Centrál, Norbert Mancha wanted to combine this heritage with Parisian luxury in a vibrant interior. Its menu offers sweets and cuisine combined with a modern French touch. We enjoy stopping under its magnificent ceilings to enjoy a glass of champagne accompanied by revisited Hungarian classics; After his stay in France, the chef extends this meeting between West and East, Paris and Budapest, in his recipes. The classic of Hungarian grandmothersaranigaluskacomes in a croissant drizzled liberally with crème brûlée sauce.

We go there for: poppy seed mousse and cotton candy (1,760 HUF, about €4.70), poppy seed is a must in Hungarian pastries.

Centrál Grand Cafe & Bar, Budapest, Károlyi utca 9, 1053 Hungary. Such. +36 30 945 80 58.

Hadik Kavehaz

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Frigyes Karinthy Hadiki/ Hadiki and szatyor bar terrace. Hadik Archives / Fotomamul

Hadik Cafe could be called Friges Carinthia’s house. The portrait of the writer, who was also a Nyugat journalist, is also the logo of the place, Buda Cafe, located on a road full of art galleries and cultural institutions. Founded in 1911, the cafe became the heart of bohemian life in the 1920s. Closer to home, László Nemes settled there to write the screenplay for his Oscar-winning film and Grand Prix at the 2015 Cannes Film Festival. Saul’s son The front page now sits on the walls of Hadik, a place that, 111 years later, has retained the progressive spirit of the beginning. If the crazy party basement of the past, the part that Carinthia called ” many (net bag in Hungarian) today is the kitchen, a part many “Dressed by young artists and crazier than classic Hadik, still exists and is copied across the street, a “Szatyor – Art space“, an exhibition space for the new generation of artists.

We go there for: Karinti cake (HUF 1,350, approx. EUR 3.60), a recipe developed with the help of the writer’s grandson, Marton Karinti.

Café Hadik, Budapest, Bartók Béla út 36, 1111 Hungary. Such. +36 20 502 2597.

Szamos Cafe

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Chocolate Museum in Szamos, Kossuth Lajos Square/ The Legendar Eszterházy/ Marzipan Heart. Szamos Archives and Vanessa Schmitz-Grucker

Szamos coffee is first and foremost a family business. At the head of one of Hungary’s greatest success stories today we find Gabriella Samos, the daughter of the founder Matias Samos. A gifted confectioner of Serbian origin, he established himself in Eastern Europe thanks to his mastery of marzipan figurines and opened his first shop in 1935 with the iconic look.Parisi utca:, Parisian street. Even today, Szamos is famous for its marzipan delicacies covered in dark chocolate. If the city now turns seventeen brands, you should go either to the historic address Párizsi utca 3 or to Kossuth Square in front of the monumental parliament. . It is also a modern place, where the walls decorated by the artist Hanna Kürti reflect the ambitions of the sponsoring family; The Samoans support the Georges Chifra Festival, a tribute to the Hungarian piano virtuoso, a naturalized Frenchman.

We are going there Esterházy (HUF 840, about €2.20), the emblematic Hungarian pastry named after Prince Paul Anton III Esterházy.

Szamos Cafe, Budapest, 1051, Kossuth Lajos tér 10, 1055 Hungary. Such. +36 (1) 269 0216.

House of Hower

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La Maison Hauer at the beginning of the 20th century / La Maison Hauer in 2022. The Hauer House / Photo Press

It is a Hungarian confectionery giant, but also an insider’s address. the house is sometimes unfairly overlooked by visitors because it’s a bit off the tourist trail. And yet, the list of medals and awards displayed in its window speaks of the success of this house founded in 1899. The storefront hasn’t changed much since the days of its founder, Resso Hauer. A student of the undisputed master of Hungarian pastry, Emil Gerbo, Rezsó had a weakness for pineapple, which is still not widely used in Hungarian desserts today; existence in 2019, it connects with the mango, which is a unique originality in Hungary. Another dessert to look out forNapraforgochosen the best Hungarian pastry of the year in 2021 and its Sacher à la Alain Ducasse;

We go there for: Nimród (HUF 1,340, approx. EUR 3.60), the house’s bestseller, awarded the first “Egy a Természettel” award in 2021 in association with the Hungarian Patisserie Association. It takes no less than three days to make this five-layer cake.

Hauer Cukrászda és Kávéház, Budapest, Rákóczi út 47-49, 1088 Hungary. Such. +36 (1) 612 1313.

Astoria Cafe

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Hôtel Astoria at the beginning of the 20th century / Café Astoria in 2022. Cafe Astoria and Vanessa Schmitz-Grucker

The great Hungarian writer Krudi Gyula had his habits there. President Mihaly Karoli regularly sat there. It was even from there that he addressed the crowds in October 1918 during the Astaire Revolution, establishing the first and short-lived Hungarian Republic, which he ruled until 1919 from his offices in the Hotel Astoria. The cafe is located on the ground floor of this hotel, the oldest still operating in Budapest. Opening in 1914 at the crossroads of the same name, Astoria was also known for its wild jazz nights and performances by gypsy fiddler Lakatos Sandor. This is one of the few places where you can enjoy pastries from 7 am to 10 pm.

We go there for: Dobos can be enjoyed daily from 3pm to 5pm for HUF 1,290 (ie about €3.40) with a cappuccino. Developed in 1884 by the great Hungarian pastry chef Dobos Karolyi Josef, the recipe was presented to the Austro-Hungarian Emperor François-Joseph I the following year. It is easily mentioned as the favorite dessert of Hungarians.

Cafe Astoria Restaurant, Budapest, Kossuth Laios u. 19, 1053 Hungary. Such. +36 (1) 889 6000.

Source: Le Figaro

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