discover the meanings of the acronyms and other information on the label

Sunscreen is a fundamental product for skin protection. Whether during the heat or on cloudy days, its use must be done continuously to avoid problems caused by ultraviolet (UV) rays. Even so, according to data from the National Skin Cancer Campaign of the Brazilian Society of Dermatology (SBD), 60% of Brazilians do not use this item daily.

“Sunscreen is, without a doubt, the best anti-wrinkle cream out there. The Brazilian consumer, who is not used to using sunscreen daily, in many cases does not even imagine what the acronyms, abbreviations and marketing appeals of a sunscreen are”, says Dr. Jaqueline Zmijevski, dermatologist by SBD.

Still according to her, this type of knowledge guarantees the consumer more security. “By not understanding the label of this product, the patient can buy one that is not the best for their skin and this ends up discouraging the use of this very important product. Or else, not giving value to a product that offers other forms of protection”, highlights the doctor.

To help you decipher all this information, the doctor explains in an easy and didactic way what each of the terms means. Check out!

Meaning of acronyms and abbreviations

According to the dermatologist, understanding the abbreviations of a photoprotector is of such importance, since we are talking about Sun rays that can cause aging, blemishes and skin cancer. The main acronyms and abbreviations are:

UVB

Ultraviolet B radiation is capable of making the skin red, with erythema, causing burns and burning. “This radiation is present in a higher percentage between 10 am and 4 pm and is involved in the synthesis of vitamin D”, says the doctor.

GRAPE

It is a radiation present throughout the day, from sunrise to sunset. “It is able to pass through clouds, windows and car glass. Its incidence does not change with the time of year or with the climate. main responsible for premature aging (spots and wrinkles), this type of radiation is painless and penetrates deep into the skin, down to the dermis, being responsible for producing the dreaded free radicals,” says the doctor.

FPS

The acronym SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor and is an index that determines how long a person can be exposed to the sun without turning their skin red. “It is the value obtained by the ratio between the minimum dose of redness in the skin protected by a sunscreen and the minimum dose of redness in the same skin when unprotected”, explains the doctor. This protection refers only to UVB rays.

What is the ideal FPS? “If I apply factor 30, it absorbs an average of 96.7% of solar radiation. In the case of factor 50, it is absorbing 98% of solar radiation. One of the recommended strategies is the use of the ‘teaspoon rule’, in which we consider the application of a teaspoon on the face and on each of the upper limbs and two teaspoons on the trunk/back and on each of the limbs lower,” explains Dr. Jacqueline Zmijevski.

The doctor also highlights other essential measures to protect oneself from the sun’s rays: “As no sunscreen can filter 100% of UV rays, protective clothing (with SPF), hats and shade shelter are also important indications”, completes the specialist. .

PPD and FP-UVA

PPD means Persistent Pigment Darkening and indicates the degree of protection against UVA rays. On labels, PPD may appear as FP-UVA (UVA Protection Factor). “In the UVB (SPF) study, we measure how long it takes the skin to turn red when exposed to UVB. In the case of the UVA study, the length of time the skin takes to show melanin pigmentation when exposed to UVA is measured. The ideal PPD is from 10 and must represent, at least, one third of the SPF”, says the doctor.

PA+

PA+, PA++, PA+++, PA++++ are present in sunscreens, mainly imported ones. The PA is a PPD scale, that is, the degree of UVA protection of a sunscreen: “According to the methodology Measurement Standards for UVA Protection Efficacydescribed by Japan Cosmetic Industry Associationprotection between 2 and 4 is indicated as PA+, between 4 and 8 is PA++, between 8 and 16 is PA+++ and greater than 16 is PA++++, the last two being the best options”, he explains.

GO

IR is the Infrared or infrared, a radiation felt on the skin through heat or haze. “This is a wavelength that reaches the deepest dermis, where the skin’s anchoring and support fibers are located. And that brings consequences to the elasticity of the skin”.

In addition, infrared is also associated with the worsening of pre-existing spots, especially melasma. The dermatologist explains that, in these cases, it is important to use physical protection and antioxidants that reduce the inflammatory process caused by infrared🇧🇷 For this type of protection, physical or color filters are a good choice.

Definition of label information

Marketing claims for sunscreens do not always mean something with the sole aim of selling the product and misleading the consumer. “Many marketing appeals are highly important to understand which product is most suitable for my needs”, says Dr. Jacqueline Zmijevski.

Waterproof

Although the information seems obvious, what does it mean to say that the protector is waterproof? Some sunscreens are resistant to sea and pool water and sweat. “When a sunscreen is water-resistant, it stays effective for an average of 40 minutes on wet skin. When it is very water resistant, the sunscreen remains effective for 80 minutes in water. The highly water-resistant version is more suitable for children and athletes”, says the dermatologist.

But even with the protective capacity of creams, it is essential to reinforce application throughout the day. “However, we always reiterate the recommendation to reapply the filter every two hours and after showering. sea ​​and pool, since we also tend to pass our hand more on the face or body, helping to remove the filter. By reapplying, we guarantee a protected skin”, explains Dr. Jacqueline Zmijevski.

broad spectrum

Sun protection is a concept that can involve covering the skin against damage caused by ultraviolet A (UVA) and ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation, which are harmful to the skin. “But a broad-spectrum sunscreen protects the skin from aging (spots, wrinkles and sagging) from burning and helps prevent skin cancer, and may contain antioxidant and anti-inflammatory extracts and actives, which ‘clean’ part of the ‘ dirt’ left by radiation escaping from the sunscreen. These actives are important because, as we’ve seen, no filter provides 100% protection, and we don’t always apply them evenly and in the right amount”, highlights the dermatologist.

Antioxidants

These molecules have become very famous in recent years. “Antioxidants minimize the formation of free radicals (and in some cases reverse the damage caused by them). They are considered excellent allies in everyday life. Free radicals are unstable and highly reactive atoms or molecules that, in excess, begin to attack healthy cells, such as proteins, lipids and DNA. solar radiation, the infrared and visible light they are capable of generating free radicals, which also damage the cell membrane and structure, and may, in extreme cases, lead to cell death,” says the doctor.

When a sunscreen contains antioxidants, it is also generally considered broad-spectrum and offers additional benefits such as anti-inflammatory, repairing and anti-pollutant action. “The most famous antioxidants are Vitamins E, C and B3 (Niacinamide), in addition to ferulic acid and resveratrol”, says the doctor.

Color

Colored filters help even out skin tone, but not only that: “They have substances, usually titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, which provide physical protection from visible light. They are excellent allies, especially for patients with melasma, as spots can get worse with prolonged exposure to visible light.

Chemical and physical filters

Divided between chemicals and physicists, filters act in different ways. “There are two types of action for the sunscreen. Physical filters (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) reflect sunlight. It’s like a brick wall that the light hits and bounces off. Chemical filters, on the other hand, absorb UV radiation, transforming it into low energy, without the ability to cause damage,” says the doctor.

The specialist also explains the difference between products with color and without color: “Most products offered on the market, without color, have the chemical protection, while products with color offer both types of protection. Purely physical filters usually have the information on the packaging that they are “100% mineral” and are more suitable for people with sensitive or sensitized skin. Or even for those who have photosensitive diseases”, says the dermatologist.

photoaging

When there is information on the filter label that it protects against photoaging, it is reinforcing the idea that sunscreen is the best weapon for topical use against the appearance of spots and premature aging.

visible light

Visible light is emitted not only by the sun but also by computers, cell phones, tablets and other screens you may have at home. This type of radiation, explains Dr. Jaqueline, is especially related to appearance of spots, even worsening melasma, a chronic condition characterized by the appearance of dark spots usually on the face. “In this way, blue lights are potentially harmful to the skin in the long term”, highlights the doctor.

Sunscreen with repellent

Watch out! It may seem tempting to have everything in one product, but the problem with all-in-ones is the amount you apply and the frequency of reapplications. Sunscreen should be applied liberally, insect repellent applied thinly and less frequently than sunscreen.

dry touch

Often the texture, or rather the vehicle of the sunscreen, is also stated on the label. They are: gel, cream, gel-cream, lotion, spray, stick. And also information like ‘dry touch’ ‘matte effect’ or ‘moisturizing’. “All of these are vehicles that carry protective particles and should be considered when choosing a photoprotector, as a suitable texture for your skin type and routine helps you adhere to daily use”, concludes Dr. Jacqueline Zmijevski.

By Guilherme Zanette