LED masks and other light therapy devices are invading our bathrooms and offering benefits: anti-wrinkle, anti-pimple, glow-enhancing… How effective are they? Experts enlighten us.
On social media, we only see celebrities transformed into Robocop or Daft Punk praising the effect of LED masks on their glowing face. A non-invasive, completely painless and safe treatment that is all the rage as an alternative to injections, especially post-Covid. Yesterday reserved for dermatologists’ offices, these LED-based treatments have entered our homes in all forms and at all prices. “LED technology will make it possible to replace WiFi tomorrow with LiFi, without radio waves and risking health,” even affirms Frédéric Granottier, president of Lucibel, specialist in LED-based lighting and creator of OVE, the world’s coolest masks. market.
A minimum of clarity is required before investing. And most importantly, let’s be precise. the exact term for this new generation of light therapy is “photobiomodulation”. And it doesn’t come out of the hat, because NASA was the first to take an interest in it and show its effect on the treatment of astronauts in weightlessness.
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For over twenty years, dermatologists and estheticians have been using it to treat acne, soothe and repair the skin after a peel or laser session. Not forgetting light therapy (white light), which has long been used for seasonal depression. Medical photobiomodulation is also being developed in oncology (for example, to follow up radiation therapy) and in neurology against Alzheimer’s disease. And for our skin?
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“UV, yes,” confirms Geraldine Deco, founder of Lightinderm. They burn and break DNA strands, but light is like oxygen, Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, poison and antidote. The skin has many photoreceptors, different depending on the wavelength. And since plants make leaves and oxygen with the sun, we have our own photosynthesis. The skin converts light energy into cellular energy, which allows it to do its job of fighting aggression and inflammation, detoxifying, and producing and organizing proteins, including collagen.
The skin has many photoreceptors, different depending on the wavelength. Karina Twiss. Model aliz menyhert @marilyn agency
Blue, green or red, what’s the difference?
Each wavelength has its own action. Blue light, a cleanser, plays on the skin’s microbiota, helping to heal skin irregularities, blackheads, blackheads, and enlarged pores; green has a demonstrated effect on capillaries and pigmentation. In the antiaging field, the red/infrared pair would be the most effective. That’s right, two wavelengths: 633 for red light and 830 for infrared.
What does red (and infrared) light do?
It modulates living beings, so its name is photobiomodulation. Light energy reaches the mitochondria, the energy center of the cell, and stimulates natural biological regeneration processes, promotes the production of skin proteins (including collagen), elastin and hyaluronic acid. “It is above all antioxidant and anti-inflammatory,” adds Dr. Francois Michel, dermatologist, photobiomodulation specialist since 2006. I use it a lot and have done tens of thousands of treatments. Good results are also achieved with pregnancy mask (chloasma) and stretch marks. In terms of preventing aging, it gives shine, smoothes, strengthens, soothes redness.”
There is no miracle. LED won’t make a deep wrinkle, which is a break in the dermis, disappear, but it can prevent it from forming.
Carole Amar, Founder of Nooance
Carol Amar, founder of Nooance, one of the latest brands to hit the market, puts it bluntly. “There are no miracles either. It will not eliminate a deep wrinkle, which is a break in the dermis. But he can stop that from happening. Geraldine Deco adds: “After a certain age and older, when resting, light alone is not enough. It should be combined with other non-invasive treatments such as massages, mesotherapy, radiofrequency or HIFU ultrasound.”
For maximum effectiveness, the light should cover the eye and mouth area well. Karina Twiss. Model aliz menyhert @marilyn agency
We also talk about the impact on the mind…
“Yes, light provides well-being, it’s proven,” replies Dr: Michael. In fact, it balances, energizes the depressed, and calms the anxious. It even boosts the brain’s cognitive abilities and improves sleep. However, it is recommended to choose blue light in the morning and red light in the evening. “We should consider this treatment as a ritual of pleasure and well-being, a new daily gesture,” insists Géraldine Deco, “but there is no need to saturate the skin. Studies are performed based on this protocol. You have to trust it.”
This treatment should be seen as a ritual of pleasure and well-being, a new daily gesture
Geraldine Deco, founder of Lightinderm
Are at-home masks as effective as professional treatments?
At the dermatologist, the machines are generally more powerful and the sessions last longer. “They have the potential to treat more serious inflammation and pathology, such as fibrous acne scars,” says Dr. Michel. It has also been proven that for maximum efficiency, the light must be in contact with the skin, covering the eyes and mouth area well, which cannot be said for panels, with which we lose light, useful energy. Hence the interest in masks and other commercial devices whose diodes touch the face. Each device in the home has its own protocol, often with pre-recorded programs. Some recommend using a little bit every day for maintenance, others every two to three days for a month or two.
With light therapy, the eyes are protected to avoid glare. Karina Twiss. Model aliz menyhert @marilyn agency
From what age?
“From the age of 15, if you have acne. And then to prevent aging, because from the age of 20 we lose our collagen, explains Géraldine Deco. And there is no limit. We’re seeing improvements after 60 years.” In terms of results, allow about two weeks for skin radiance and quality; one to two months for wrinkles. And after three months it gets better and better. “It works for everyone, all skin tones, including men, but with wrinkles there are ‘super responders’ whose effects are ten times greater than average without us understanding why,” marvels Dr Michel. There are no contraindications. Avoided by pregnant women, epileptics and ophthalmic migraine sufferers, but without real scientific reasons. Just as a precaution. “We studied precancerous cells for seven years,” explains Géraldine Deco, “and we didn’t notice any suspicious mutations.” There is no danger for eyes either, with a slight minus for blue. In all cases, we protect them to avoid glare.”
There are “super responders” for whom the effect turns out to be 10 times higher than average without understanding why.
Dr. Francois Michel, dermatologist, specialist in photobiomodulation
Should we use the treatment before, after, or at all?
“It has been proven that light promotes the penetration of active ingredients and increases their effectiveness tenfold,” confirm all our experts. But if we put it forward, it is better to use a watery and transparent serum. Most brands have developed a variety of special treatments that can be used additionally before, during or after a session. Some recommend exfoliating beforehand to optimize the process.
And the body?
In anti-aging clinics, some spas and medical practices, there are full-body panels for well-being, against orange peel, against stretch marks, to regulate the gut microbiota… At home, some brands are starting to offer devices that adapt to body parts, including the head; Light applied to the scalp slows down hair loss, stimulates the growth of remaining hair, provides density and shine.
How to choose the right device?
It is not easy, because there is everything in the market. Give preference to those produced in France and which, above all, can present serious clinical studies (on the device in question and not general studies). Then again, it’s a matter of ergonomics, comfort and lifestyle. You have to want to use it. Since it is a long-term investment, make sure it offers multiple plans.
Source: Le Figaro
