Anti-glycation, a new regimen to slow the effects of sugar on skin aging

“Glycation”. This scientific term, which has become a trend, is more and more spoken in the field of cosmetics. Some brands even use the phrase “anti-glycation” to describe their latest formulas that reverse the signs of aging in revolutionary ways. However, the mechanism is far from a new biological phenomenon, as its discovery began in 1912 thanks to the French chemist Louis Camille Meillar. Then in the 1980s, its role in skin aging was demonstrated. “Glycation is the process by which blood sugar molecules attach to lipids and proteins in the body, including collagen and elastin fibers,” explains Dr. Marina Alexander, dermatologist and Scientific Advisor to SkinCeuticals. “This leads to the formation of advanced glycation end products, also called AGEs. In turn, these AGEs can promote the formation of free radicals and micro-inflammation,” continues Dr. Julia Weisz, MD, researcher and manager of Beiersdorf AG Research & Development Biological Category Support.

Wrinkles, pale complexion and sagging skin

Simply put, sugar weakens the main pillars of skin’s youth. Indeed, “collagen fibers are like strong ropes responsible for the elasticity and structure of the skin, while elastin fibers give it elasticity. The process of glycation attacks these two types of fibers, so it reduces the skin’s elasticity and makes it stiffer,” explains Dr. Weisz, clarifying that loss of firmness is not the only sign of skin aging. “Not only is glycation one of the main causes of wrinkles,” it also dulls the complexion, making it “more yellowish due to the yellow-brown color of AGEs.”

Cumulative effects

However, wrinkles will appear not after a good dessert, nor even after a week of excess sweets. “Initially, the phenomenon of glycation does not necessarily have an effect on aging, it is not immediately apparent. But the more time passes, the worse it gets, and it becomes more visible on the skin,” explains Dr. Marina Alexandre, adding that “it is a cumulative phenomenon. Glucose binds to the fibers over time until they are completely ‘caramelized’ and therefore no longer functional.”

No generation is spared from the twenties. Formation of glycated collagen is observed from ages 20-30 and accumulates at a rate of approximately 3.7% per year, reaching a 30-50% increase by age 80 (1). “This is a normal phenomenon of human skin aging, but in general, blood sugar regulation becomes less optimal as we age, as do many other things as we age,” notes the specialist.

Good preventive actions

Not surprisingly, recent research shows a link between a high-sugar diet and markers of glycation. “The more we consume a diet rich in fast sugars, the more the blood sugar level rises, and the more significant the phenomenon of glycation will be,” confirms the dermatologist. So we have to radically abandon all niceties in order to age gracefully. “The idea that we can eliminate sugars from our diet is probably unrealistic,” admits Dr. Julia Weiss, before emphasizing: “However, one thing is clear. how little we consume glucose, fructose (fruit sugar), lactose (milk sugar) or typical sucrose (industrial sugar), the better we do for our skin.”

To prevent the phenomenon, Dr. Alexander suggests, “first, control your diet by adopting a diet that is not too high in fast sugars. Try to use it in moderation so that you don’t have significant blood sugar spikes, but a fairly stable blood glucose level. Which, in any case, is good for your health,” insists the dermatologist, who also suggests eating a diet rich in antioxidants.

Let food lovers rest assured. it’s not just on the plate that we can act. In our bathroom too, certain steps in our beauty routine can help limit and prevent damage. “For example, by integrating treatments based on anti-aging and antioxidant active ingredients that can slow down the glycation phenomenon and at least partially prevent the binding of glucose to collagen and elastin fibers,” advises Marina. Alexander. In fact, more and more brands are starting to develop “anti-glycation” treatments, from Clarins to Biologique Recherche, including Institut Esthederm and Patyka.

Irreversible consequences

However, both experts agree that it is impossible to restore the previous damage. “We can’t eliminate AGEs once they’re in the skin, which means that once the glycation process is complete, it’s irreversible,” says Dr. Weiss. All we can hope for is to slow it down.

Finally, it doesn’t make sense to eliminate sugar from your diet to fight the signs of aging if you’re accumulating bad habits the rest of the time. “If glycation is one of the main phenomena of skin aging, we should not forget that it is not the only one. Indeed, other factors are also at work, such as exposure to ultraviolet rays of the sun, smoking, slowing down the synthesis of hyaluronic acid and collagen, etc.,” recalls Dr. Marina Alexander.

(1) H. Pageon, H. Bakala, VM Monnier and D. Asselineau, “Collagen glycation induces senescent skin formation in vitro”, European Journal of Dermatology: EJD, Vol. 17, No. 1, pp. 12-20, 2007