Marc Jacobs. “In New York I can go out in high heels and nail polish without getting robbed”

Like every day, Marc Jacobs works in his studio in the heart of New York’s Soho. The meticulous care with which she is dressed to the extreme softens her gaze, which pierces a certain vulnerability. At 59, the couturier belongs to this small breed of pioneers who have managed to capture the spirit of the times and invent pieces that women didn’t know they needed until the clothes hit the catwalks. Last September, during New York Fashion Week, she took over the Hammerstein Ballroom to stage a capsule collection, responding to an invitation from London-based Kim Jones, Fendi’s artistic director of womenswear. The event was celebrated on the 25th^e anniversary of an absolute icon, the Fendi Baguette, “one of the pillars of the house,” according to the English designer.

In the video, Linda Evangelista applauds the Fendi podium for the Baguette bag’s 25th anniversary.

A small envelope-shaped bag created in 1997 by brand heiress Silvia Fendi, the Baguette was born in Rome but found its first glory in Manhattan. Sported on the shoulder of Carrie Bradshaw – Sarah Jessica Parker Sex and the city – he absorbed the energy of the city. “The baguette is part of pop culture,” says Kim Jones. Like the Jordan 1, it’s a classic piece that could be displayed in a design museum.” Kim Jones and Marc Jacobs have known each other for a long time. “I wouldn’t be here without Mark,” assures Kim Jones, recalling that the latter hired her at Louis Vuitton to head men’s fashion. “Kim and I continue to have an uninterrupted artistic conversation,” says Marc Jacobs. I was delighted that he asked me to redefine Baguette through the collection.” The Baguette was reinvented endlessly over the course of the show. The era of freedom and excess that saw its birth inspired the American designer, who infused many elements from his universe into this collection of Fendi clothing. Meeting.

“Like any iconic object, the sight of a baguette draped over one’s shoulder is enough to conjure up a plethora of images.”

Madame Figaro . – What images does the baguette bag evoke in you?
Marc Jacobs. – The wand has a persuasive power that is imprinted in the memory. It is not a “star”, it is the “star” that we give importance to. As with any symbolic object, the sight of a baguette draped over one’s shoulder is enough to conjure up an abundance of images; we think of Carrie Bradshaw strolling through SoHo with a purple baguette. It’s sexy.

How did you find the style language for this collaboration?
When Kim invited me to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the Baguette bag, I thought about what I could bring to this accessory. The first thing I did was work on the logo. Logos are very powerful today. I wanted to graphically combine Fendi with mine. In the baguette loop, we see a superposition that mixes the Tote Bag and Fendi Roma prints. I then created two iconic versions, one glamorous, encrusted with Tiffany blue crystals, and the other, all-black, with minimalist chic. Then I thought about a palette of other colors and shades that remind me of the streets of New York. I go past 12 every morning^e Avenue and I watch the workers working in silver, yellow or other colors that blend into the rhythm of the city.

You say you’re completely fascinated by the story of the Fendi sisters. What inspires you about Silvia Fendi?
Sylvia and I, it’s a long story. My paternal grandmother Helen, a woman of elegance, bought all the fashion magazines she allowed me to read as a child. Fendi’s name kept popping up on the pages, as did Karl Lagerfeld’s name, who was associated with it. One summer my grandmother and I went on vacation to Capri. One day at a fancy restaurant, La Canzone del Mare, we met Carla Fendi. We went with him to the beach, joined by Egon von Furstenberg. I was a teenager and meeting one of the legendary Fendi sisters was a unique event. When Kim called me about this collaboration and introduced Sylvia, I felt a virtuous circle closing.

How did you meet Kim Jones?
We had many mutual friends without ever meeting. Everyone from Kate Moss to Katie Hillier said: “Don’t you know Kim?” !” I studied her work and when I had to choose a menswear designer at Louis Vuitton, I was sure that Kim would be perfect.

There is something very romantic about this collection

Marc Jacobs

What inspired the architectural look of your clothes for Fendi?
At first I was looking back at Kim’s works. There was a penchant for glorifying workwear: denim blouses, multi-pocket trousers. I wanted to take her concept to the extreme, imbuing the collection with an urban and futuristic appeal through baguette bags in the shape of a parachute, faux fur parkas, sweatshirts paired with lace skirts. I exaggerated the proportions. There is something very romantic about this collection. Like giant cloche hats that pay homage to my collaboration with Stephen Jones.

A romantic dimension…
One of my mistakes is wanting to overanalyze everything. But there I abandoned myself to the sensations. I walked the streets of New York, immersed myself in the architecture that had shocked me since childhood, I was reminded of the legacy of Fendi, the crazy freedom of Karl Lagerfeld and the 1970s. And I started drawing hundreds of sketches.

“My work is an extension of me and I am an extension of my work”

In:There’s something Warholian about how you’ve made a work of art out of yourself…
My work is an extension of me, and I am an extension of my work. I have always studied every detail of my appearance, I wanted to dress for every occasion. I move with strokes like a painter would with his canvas. I need someone to look after me. I want to attract attention.

Lady Gaga and Rihanna respect you. Which young music stars are changing fashion codes?
Above all, I would bring Billie Eilish and Rosalia, who transform the character of the woman. They are part of a brave generation that is not afraid to express itself in all its forms. Like Harry Styles and Bad Bunny redefining masculinity. Their aesthetic manifestos change the attitudes and codes of the streets.

How important is it to you to be honest, complete and transparent in your work?
You touch on an important point. These are the three qualities I strive for. I would add without complications. When I was young, I thought I had to soften my personality, tame my tastes. Hiding is painful. The most beautiful thing in my life today is being in harmony with my will. Of course, this route is less difficult for someone like me who lives in a protected bubble. In New York, I can go out in high heels and nail polish without getting mugged. I can talk about my therapy or cosmetic surgery. What I strive to do through fashion is to help others be themselves. Unique. There is nothing more beautiful.

In the video: Marc Jacobs fall-winter 2020-2021 show