Sociologists marvel at such similarities… Take the early 1990s, darkened by the AIDS epidemic. After a decade of crazy “yuppie”, the world is in search of perfection, which is reflected in the victory of L’Eau d’Issey by the men’s perfume, the Japanese Miyake – a drop of iodized sensation of water. sprayed on wooden sheets, breaking the eastern paths of that time. Thirty years later, the same reasons, the same consequences? Sanitation crisis, global warming, geopolitical unrest և և, this tropism of smell, again water, fresh smells, developing a history of nature, authenticity և transparency.
In line with the season, L’Eau d’Issey pour Homme is available in the summer version of 2022, shooting the sea wind on a pine-based basis. It is inferior to modernity, the wind here is saltier with enhanced citrus. Another archetype of the genre – Giorgio Armani’s new Acqua di Gio perfume strengthens its sea surface for a long-lasting effect with crisp green hues. «Men like everything that is directly or indirectly related to freshness և physical sensations, as water slides on the skin. They are not complicated in terms of perfume, they are very loyal “commented its author, Firmenich perfumer Alberto Morilas.
A nautical note pushed into clear space that soothes after detention
Ludovic Bonneton, Founder of Bon Parfumeur
The olfactory revolution of the 1990s is due to the discovery in the Calone Laboratory of this synthetic molecule borrowed from the medical world, which smells of laminaria և beach, watermelon. In its purest form, its iodized side is not very pleasant, but Yves Tanguy nose, which has the intuition to catch something, expresses it around the flowers for the American cosmetics brand New West perfume Aramis. Two years later, the acclaimed issue of L’Eau d’Issey sparked a wave of coupons. Since then, research into perfumes has been inspired by the molecule to develop its offspring, more salty here, more mineral or even watermelon ozone, the secret of which every supplier has.
“Apart from the students of perfumery, men are not interested in the technology of molecules. fires Ludovic Bonetton, founder of Bon Parfumeur. Many people visit our Mare boutique, captivated by our sober bottles with the names of numbers and ingredients. And on rainy days, everyone asks for a fresh scent or, for a pinch, a holiday scent. “Women mostly choose citrus-beach scents (103 hibiscus), while men prefer our 801 link titled Embruns, cedar grapefruit.” Released five years ago, the 801, with a lot of water flight, has been enjoying real glory for two years. “The Covid epidemic has probably hit, knows Louis Bonneton. A nautical note pushed into clear space that soothes after detention.» The sign of the times, even Serge Lutens, the singer of dizzy silages, releases a range of bath products, including Parole d’Eau, which refuses the aroma of herbal camphor in perfume, as well as in shower gel.
Back to the Grace of Water Notes
If hygiene is never too far removed from the watery notes, their return cannot be fully explained by the epidemic. This only accelerated the emergence of simpler և metaphorical scents, abstract երկար after a long cycle of powerful fragrances, sticky fruit for ladies և wood amber for gentlemen. “Whether fresh water or sea, water agreements are very inspiring, so it is easy to understand for men.says perfumer Paul Guerlain, who signed Julien Rasquinet with IFF’s latest Jimmy Choo, Man Aqua. We wrapped a rather classic heart of sage, geranium with juicy fruits and bright sea notes. It smells clean, but it also smells of freedom with pictures of the beach and the outside. Concepts that speak for all generations, so the perfect gift for Father’s Day. A fortiori because they do not play in the register of temptation.
A kind of Proustian Madeleine that is less involved than an intense oriental, even sharing bottle that connects generations. “In the store, as well as on the website, my sales respond to two very simple situations. says Ludovic Bonneton. On the one hand the man wants to seduce, then he buys a powerful amber stick; on the other hand, he seeks a sense of purity for more narcissistic pleasure, for example after sports. And there he goes for either cologne or fresh water perfume, which has a slightly more conservative effect on its overall woody base..» Eternal notes that will sign the perfect paternal gift for next Sunday.
Source: Le Figaro
