Embroiderers, weavers… they reconnect with arts and crafts to develop new techniques and styles. Meeting four textile designers who pique our interest.
What if ceramics, the artistic superstar of recent years, were almost dethroned by yarn? This material is, in fact, in the process of making a remarkable breakthrough in the world of creativity and handwork and is mobilizing exciting new talent. Be it cotton, silk, linen, it allows you to explore many areas: embroidery, sewing, knitting… It rotates, mixes with other materials, allows you to draw and express yourself. Transformed in this way, it covers the furniture, dresses the walls. In addition to this tremendous potential, the thread also rhymes with links and connections. In sad and dark times, it symbolizes transmission and solidarity. Hopeful values. Evidence of the growing interest in thread, 19M Gallery is devoting its Fall Winter 2022-2023 season to a five-episode program titled: On the Wire: A Journey into the Heart of Embroidery and Fabric. Located in Aubervilliers (Saint-Saint-Denis), this cultural venue, whose architecture is signed by Rudy Ricciotti, aims to promote the crafts of fashion and decoration. So, until February 12th, it focuses on projects where that thread crosses, especially photography and painting. So it’s high time to follow the thread and discover the creators who play with it and engage…
In the video, Manual. How to customize a shirt with embroidery
Perrine Rousseau, most posted
His resume. When she entered Arts Deco in Paris, Perrin Rousseau envisioned herself as an artist. But she discovered knitting and fell in love with it. A trip to Morocco, during which he met many artisans working with textiles, convinced him to dedicate himself to this activity. In 2006, he created his fabric studio, and from the first presentation of his creations at the Maison & Objet exhibition, everything happened very quickly.
Why knitting?
“When I entered Arts Deco, I wanted to become an artist, but the artist’s loneliness scared me. The discovery of the texture filled me. It crystallized everything I loved: working with colors, materials, light. And that with the opportunity to be in the team.
Your beloved sons?
“I like natural materials like linen, silk. I avoid all synthetic fibers.”
Your practice.
“We design textile collections in the studio. We create the prototypes on the looms and the production is done in the factories in India. I have had a passion for this country since I was 18 years old. We also do special orders here. Our customers are interior designers and decorators.”
Your studio?
“It is located at XXe Paris region. There are eleven of us in this bright space, on two levels, with a large glass roof. There we create, we weave there, we perform administrative functions.”
Your news?
“Five years ago, I felt the need to create without specifications. My soul, as an artist, has taken over. I prepared myself to face loneliness. Company-free knitting has even become a necessity. I have invested in a large workshop in the Luberon where I knit several days a week. For this part of my work, I am represented by the Armel Soyer gallery in France.”
perrineparis.com:
Lily Alcaraz and Lea Berlier, the most experimental
Their resume. They met in the field of textile design at the School of Duperre. After their BTS, they applied to Ensci, a textile department that offered only eight seats. Both of them were taken away. After graduating in 2008, they couldn’t find their dream job and decided to create it by starting their own studio. In 2009, they submitted an application for residency at Ateliers in Paris. He is discreet. They buy their first used looms.
Why knitting?
“At Duperré, we have worked hard on repurposing existing textiles. But it was more interesting for us to start with yarn, to create our own materials. It was at Ensci that we discovered how to knit. And then, we both immersed ourselves in families that have a connection, a thread coming from St. Etienne, the city of ribbon, grandmothers who were great seamstresses…”
Your approach to yarn.
“Everything starts with the desire to cross the thread with another material. This is how our collections are born. We started by weaving threads and paper. Today we also use leather, wood strips. We offer our collections to interior designers and decorators. They work very well for screens, wall coverings, headboards, furniture… So we dressed up a chest designed by Pierre Charrier and produced by Atelier Jean Brieuc.”
Your workshop.
“We just moved into this factory in XXe district We have space for our looms where we hand weave everything, our prototypes as well as our orders. And we can also devote ourselves to our other specialty of textile design.”
A meaningful partnership?
“We have many secret projects. But we can mention Stéphanie Koutas, who ordered wood fabrics from us for her lamp bases and pedestal tables, and Anne-Sophie Pailleret, who joined the panels we woven in her showroom apartment.”
lilyetlea.fr:
Audrey Demar, The Most Instinctive
His resume. After studying modern literature, he became an editor, specializing in beautiful books. At the age of 40, he began to embroider sensitive maps – journeys through cities, addresses of his relatives. Three and a half years ago, he left the publishing house to devote himself to this work.
Why embroidery?
“My great-grandmother, Irma, worked with clothes from the age of 13. When my mother announced to him that she was pregnant with me, she was already 100 years old and said: “I will wait for him.” What did he do? This story is like a strong thread between the two of us. And embroidery is a form of magical heritage, because I am self-taught.”
Your favorite props?
“Old sheets, old tea towels. Nothing excites me more than textile covers. To come and embroider on it is to be part of the continuum.”
Your practice.
“Sensitive mapping is my trademark. Another topic that often comes up for me is the issue of women. I often embroider the names of my beloved women. The fact of evoking them through a reference topic seems to me very suitable to express my admiration.
Your source of inspiration.
“Nature, which has a much bigger imagination than us. I am passionate about trees and the phenomenon of treetop shyness.”
Your workshop.
“It is located in the buildings of the old university of Sensier. I just moved there. I envisioned the wall behind my desk as a mood board where I display all my textile treasures: little knitted slippers, my mother’s first needlework, American patches of clothing…”
@audreydemarre:
Source: Le Figaro
