The button, this detail that enhances Chanel’s haute couture collection

The collection begins with a practical detail. The button. But to dwell on this notion of detail would be to reduce this small object to a very restorative function. Otherwise, an ornament, a luxury accessory, an art prop, the button is not so small. Moreover, for several years now, a number of branded and vintage versions have been in the spotlight on TikTok and Instagram, with fashion fans reserving a special place for it on necklaces, cardigans and even upcycled jackets. Making the button the starting point of her spring-summer 2024 haute couture collection, artistic director Virginie Viard reminds us that it is the know-how of jewelry or goldsmithing. And even here is a source of inspiration for the decor of a haute couture fashion show. At the Grand Palais Éphémère, the track is circular, crowned by a giant button that juts out from the ceiling to herald the joyous parade. A sober and monumental space designed by American rapper Kendrick Lamar, director Dave Free and choreographer Mike Carson in response to the film. The button which accompanies the production and stars American actress (and Chanel ambassador) Margaret Qualley. Anna Muglalis and Naomi Campbell also perform. Unsurprisingly, this star-studded cast posed for photographers in the front row of the parade.

Body dance

On this sand-colored carpeted floor we find the silhouette of Paris, this girl with flowing hair in a maxi-knot that Virginia Viard takes to the world of ballet. She takes on the features of a dancer exiting the stage while recalling her world through transparency, veil, shoots and white tights. “Dance, I often think about it, is an important theme at Chanel,” explains the artistic director. The house is close to its institutions, choreographers, dancers, we create ballet costumes. I tried to bring together the strength and elegance of the body and the garment in a very light collection made of tulle, tulle, pleats and lace.”

Styling exercise

The models express Chanel’s know-how and remind us that haute couture is a style exercise that belongs only to Paris and a few fashion houses. All this with a certain simplicity and flowery girlish side. They wear long tweed jackets with embroidered tulle pockets, sheer trousers, collars in a palette of white and powder pink. Jeweled buttons top off an embroidered puffer top, accentuate a pearl gray coat and add light to a long black jacket with flared sleeves. Virginia Viard believed that this haute couture was an “affirmation of the victorious body” wearing the red thread button, which is also a symbol of emancipation.