Should we be applying “anti-aging” treatments from our twenties to prevent the signs of aging?

Tips and tutorials on social media for adopting a so-called “anti-aging” beauty regimen appeal to a certain audience who have yet to see the shadow of a wrinkle appear on their face. Especially on TikTok, a popular platform for Generation Z, young people under 25 are enthusiastically engaging in “preventive” grooming rituals to combat the signs of aging. For example, audiences for videos extolling the benefits of retinol (6.8 billion views) or peptides (404 million views), two star ingredients in “anti-aging” cosmetics, show significant generational enthusiasm.

According to these beauty enthusiasts and fans of new trends, the best way to slow down the effects of time is to get ahead of the curve and start looking for this treatment as soon as possible. A genius idea or a fake good idea? “There is no scientific evidence to prove that an antiaging cosmetic active ingredient prevents the signs of aging,” declares Dr. Michael Nouri, dermatologist and member of the French Society of Dermatology (SFD).

Inefficiency and irritability

At best, it doesn’t work. At worst, this practice can lead to unintended consequences. “For example, retinol is a very irritating active ingredient. It is derived from retinoic acid, which dermatologists are very careful to prescribe for people who already have real visible signs of aging,” continues the specialist, noting that “the use of retinol can cause redness, irritation, which is sometimes quite difficult to soothe and to create. reactive skin. As for the concentration of active ingredients like hyaluronic acid, for example, “this has no anti-wrinkle effect on people who don’t have wrinkles. Only the moisturizing effect will be useful. Conclusion. “Putting an ineffective, potentially irritating cream on your skin every day when you’re in your twenties, considering the benefit/risk ratio, it’s really not a good idea,” says the doctor.

There is no “good age” to start

So, at what age should you start using products in this category? Dr. Nauri doesn’t give exact numbers, but explains that “it’s the skin’s appearance that will determine at what point in your life you use your first anti-aging active ingredient. That is, when you start to feel and see signs of aging on your skin, such as superficial fine lines or spots. The doctor generally observes these phenomena, which are completely normal, appearing between the ages of 35 and 45. “In this case, the use of retinol-based products can help a little, but more from a curative than a preventive point of view,” he elaborates.

For those who started too early and fear possible counterproductive adaptation in the future, don’t panic; “There is no study that shows the skin is addicted to anti-wrinkle products,” she assures.

Correct reflex

The best “anti-aging” treatment is to wear sunscreen and stay out of the sun.

Dr. Michael Nauri, SFD Member Dermatologist

However, the doctor confirms that the best remedy for the effects of aging lies not in a pot of cream… but in a good reflex to be taken every day; and makes us age. Tanning for half of the year and then doing anti-wrinkle treatment does not make sense,” he warns. In some ways, the best anti-aging treatment is sunscreen. And we can start it from childhood.” Another major risk factor for extrinsic aging is “pollution and, in particular, smoking.” And to conclude. “It is better not to smoke and protect yourself from the sun than to use an anti-wrinkle cream. These are the only ‘anti-aging’ products that have been shown to work.”