Acne, oily skin, enlarged pores… Our action plan against imperfections

Even if there has been a body positivity movement, social media filters constantly convey the myth of perfect skin, no shine, no enlarged pores, no pimples, no blackheads… And here we are dreaming of undulating smooth skin. From the magic wand of the Instagram fairy. Not forgetting the psychological effects of these “imperfections” (a not-so-positive term, we grant you). In a 2021 study by the Pierre Fabre group and startup Kap Code, more than 30% of people with acne believed their personal lives would be different without facial pimples. And this is not an anecdotal concern, as it affects three million French people and ruins life after adolescence. “Adult acne almost exclusively affects women, 10-20% after age 25. And it’s an ever-increasing indicator,” explains dermatologist Marina Alexander.

The good news is that at this age, we rarely talk about severe acne. “There is no hyperinflammatory pattern, but rather subcutaneous nodules.” On the other hand, the latter are very localized, last a long time and are very painful. These inflammatory lesions also tend to leave more marks and scars. “The first good reflex is to consult. If only we find a symptom of a pathology such as polycystic ovary syndrome or a sign of unsuitable contraception,” advises the doctor, who is also a scientific consultant for La Roche-Posay. A good daily routine is important, and double-removal of makeup is at the fore. “You have to use a fatty product like oil to remove all traces of make-up, but also sun filters. Combine it with a gentle foaming cleanser to remove the last of the residue.” Indeed, the dermatologist reminds that it is important to apply protection against UV rays every morning to avoid pigment marks.

Deep cleaning

When it comes to creams and treatments, active ingredients that contribute to this war on pimples are plentiful. “Lipophilic salicylic acid has the advantage of penetrating the skin’s pores to deeply cleanse them.” D:^D: Marina Alexander also mentions glycolic acid, exfoliating fruit acids, niacinamide, and even zinc, known for its sebum-regulating and brightening effects. Like La Roche-Posay’s brand new Effaclar Duo + M treatment, which combines some of these active ingredients combined with patented ceramide to limit the appearance of brown and red spots. “Retinol and its derivatives, which should be avoided in pregnancy, are also perfect when it comes to both anti-aging and acne-fighting issues.” Double punishment, not so uncommon when you have left what we call an ungrateful age. “In any case, one should not overestimate the powers of cosmetology. Over-the-counter products work very well with mild acne, but as soon as we move into a less moderate form, cosmetic products need to be more integrated as an aid in addition to drug treatments.

Among the latest innovations that can make a difference, hydrocolloid patches like those offered by Peace Out Skincare or Hero have everything to convince. In France, the young brand Skin & Out even had a shortage of stock after its launch. “This type of patch is of real interest because it allows you to avoid touching the blister and will allow it to mature more quickly.” Dermalogica has also developed a treatment that works deep and transforms into an invisible layer after drying on the skin. A cosmetic feat that acne-prone skin should appreciate.

Haron on fat

If acne does not necessarily appear on the face, then the regulation of excess oil remains a problem that applies to oily or combination skin. “Let’s be clear, if we can act, we won’t be able to change the nature of our skin,” warns D.^D: Marina Alexandra. So of course we advocate a matte treatment without neglecting hydration. “A common mistake is to confuse moisture with nutrition. If this type of skin does not need oil, then it needs water.” Therefore, we favor non-greasy but moisturizing textures such as cream gels or serums. On the active side, the dermatologist again recommends zinc, salicylic acid, or even niacinamide in high concentrations “around 10%.” But also beware of bad, counterproductive reflexes; “Before considering reducing your sebum production, you should avoid overstimulating the skin by exfoliating or exfoliating more than necessary.” The risk. Remove its hydrolipidic film. As a result, the skin reacts by producing more sebum to protect itself, and a vicious cycle is created.

Worry pores

With social media filters that have taught us to blur everything, we’ve discovered a new enemy: enlarged pores. “We have to accept. there is no skin without pores,” reminds the dermatologist. And for good reason, they are important to him. “They are used for thermoregulation and allow you to sweat when it’s hot and retain heat when it’s cold with their vasoconstrictive effect,” explains Marianne Lecoq, beauty editor for Benefit. And above all, they help evacuate fat. The oilier your skin, the larger your pores. A question of logic. “Then it’s better to focus on zinc, niacinamide, or even retinol-based conditioning products. The latter is perfect, especially if the pores widen depending on the skin,” explains Marina Alexandre. Indeed, if the skin becomes dry during menopause, the sagging also enlarges the pores.

This is a problem in itself at Benefit (the brand pioneered the Porefessional range in 2011 with its matte and blurring foundations). This year, she’s giving them a whole line of care called Pore Care. To get started, Marian Lecoq recommends “doing a pore mapping, or self-diagnosis. we pick up the mirror and detail our bare skin, how we see and feel it. Because of course there are enlarged pores, but also they are blocked by sebum, blackheads or whiteheads. Depending on the problem, the solution to adopt is not the same, but double cleaning and UV protection tactics always seem appropriate; The result is inflammation, and then dermatosis,” concludes the expert.

The strong in chess

To mattify and unclog pores, we can also rely on makeup, a long-maligned ally for acne-prone skin, but which has been overhauled to get back into our good graces. D:^D: Marina Alexander assures her that foundations are no longer comedogenic. “I’m all for it if it can help women feel good about themselves.” Combination to oily skin can benefit from mineral powders. Between the stucco effect and the glossy effect of the modular coating without an excess base, they bring together weighty arguments. All with SPF (Love, Oh My Cream!). Bobbi Brown has thus developed its vitamin powder that protects moisture while improving skin texture. Many foundations also play this card, like Gucci’s new reference called Éternité, with a full coverage, matte finish and sebum-regulating formula. Finally, for lovers of new gestures, Revlon has introduced its matte roller made of natural porous volcanic stone. An alternative to the popular flashcards that have generated more than ten million hashtags on TikTok. Or how to shine while having a matte profile.