Vichy, Rituals, Garnier, St Tropez… The Consumers Association showcased six self-tanners, analyzing their composition and noting their effectiveness. Verdict:
Although the number of skin cancer cases in France has tripled (1), self-tanning is more than ever a better alternative to staying in the sun to get a tan this summer. Provided the product formula is also safe. Indeed, not everyone displays an unobjectionable composition. meUFC-What to choose? analyzed some of the most popular benchmarks on the market and presented their report in an article published on May 9, 2023.
carcinogenic component
The main accusation. Dihydroxyacetone (DHA), a key ingredient in self-tanning formulas used to color the skin, has a tendency to release formaldehyde. “However, this substance has been banned in cosmetic products since 2019, as it has been proven to be sensitive to the skin and carcinogenic by inhalation,” he reminds.UFC-What to choose?, stating that “manufacturers therefore cannot intentionally integrate this material” into their formulations. However, it is systematically found in the finished product. This is why European Union regulations require that more than 10 mg/kg of formaldehyde be released, with a warning on the label (2) to inform those with allergies. However, this law only applies to formaldehyde released by preservatives, and DHA is not one of them. That’s why there’s no warning about this on self-tanner packaging.
Consumers’ Association has therefore taken on the task of identifying this carcinogenic ingredient, as well as other problematic substances, in six self-tanning lotions, foams or mists. For each product, a panel of 20 consumers rated the sun’s color, uniformity, and durability. They also rated the ease of application and use or sensitivity.
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Verdict: Four do-it-yourselfers stood out, which, however, were not ranked in exact order. Interestingly, all include the presence or traces of formaldehyde in their tubing.
meUFC-What to choose? recommends Vichy Ideal Sun Self-tanning Moisturizing Milk in particular for its texture, which “spreads easily on the skin”, creates a “fairly intense, natural and uniform tan” and which “lasts over time”. Even better, its formula is allergen-free. The b.tan brand Love at first tan self-tanning foam has the same rating, which also does not contain and has several good points. it works “quickly” (in one hour) and provides a “uniform, natural and long” – lasting result. Testers also particularly appreciated its texture, smell and application.
St Tropez Self Tan Classic Tanning Mousse, on the other hand, is described as “easy” to apply and offers a “satisfying” effect that appears “immediately”. The only “flat” refers to its composition, which includes no less than ten allergens. Finally, Garnier’s Lait Natural Bronzer Ambre Solaire has also received approval, but seems to have had slightly less success than its competitors. Even if it gives “a beautiful natural, intense and long-lasting shade” after a few hours of application, and “its fresh smell pleased the panel”, the product is said to be “gentle to spread evenly” and thus leave a “less uniform” tan. than painted goods. In addition, it displays eight allergens.
Self-tanning is not recommended
Along with bad students, two products should be avoided according toUFC-What to choose?. This, on the one hand, is the Ambre Solaire Natural Bronzer Mist from Garnier. Not only does it create a “less natural and less uniform result” than other self-timers tested, it’s also blamed for its composition, which is “not recommended.” In fact, according to the analysis, the product contains eight allergens and a high dose of formaldehyde (68 mg/kg), which poses a risk of inhalation by the consumer due to its aerosol format and which in this case becomes carcinogenic.
On the other hand, the report singled out Rituals The Ritual of Karma Self-tanning Body Lotion as containing seven allergens, too many formaldehydes, and an “additional risk of allergic reaction.” Ironically, he would only allow “too light a tan to convince.”
As a reminder, self-tanners do not provide sun protection and therefore don’t opt out of applying SPF in the sun.
(1) Source: National Cancer Institute figures for 2021.
(2) Regulation (EU) 2022/1181 of the European Commission 8July 2022.
Source: Le Figaro
