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Serums, scrubs, nutritional supplements… What if we took care of our hair the same way we take care of our skin?

The “skinning” of hair products invites new players to move forward in the field.

More premium, more effective, more diverse… the hair care market, which accounts for 21% of cosmetics purchases, has changed in recent years. A mutation, mild but real, that accompanies the change in our daily habits. Just like realizing how important it is to take care of your hair just like your skin.

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A bigger routine

This phenomenon has a name that trendsetters and brands are relentlessly hammering away at: “skinning.” “It’s the idea of ​​applying the same routine that we put in place for her face to other areas. And Hair Care is completely in line with this movement of a large-scale routine – before, during and after,” explains Chloe Arjona, head of beauty at NellyRodi trend office. No more settling for a simple shampoo combined with conditioner. Then we see the appearance of serums, scrubs and other micellar treatments dedicated to our lengths as well as scalps. Because it was he who brought another reflection and change of habits, the importance of not neglecting this very sensitive and irritated area, but also stimulating blood circulation to ensure good hair growth.

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Hair products go to the high end market

Faced with this development, it is very logical that face and body care brands have entered this market. And when he used to have a lot of shampoo mass market and bought from supermarkets, it is now a premium product. And comes to grace the shelves of department stores and luxury spas. So Sisley, which launched its Hair Rituel line in 2018, has just developed special skin care at new Maisons opening around the world. After launching a Scalp & Hair youth oil in its Abeille Royale line last year, Guerlain is set to expand the hair line next summer.

This phenomenon has a name that trendsetters and brands relentlessly hammer: “skinning”.

Universal product

And after ten years of research at Nuxe, the capillary adventure begins. “It’s a very demanding segment and we’ve really done a lot of reformulation to find the right balance between performance and naturalness without compromising on sensuality,” says brand founder Aliza Jabez. And at the launch party to insist on the bias of this new range, “deliberately short” (three products, all on the green Yuka). “The goal was not to add about fifty references, but three universal products. We all need nourishment, and Hair Prodigieux claims to provide the best answer through science and the right oil,” explains Christine Delfaut-Sarah, Deputy CEO. And this good oil is pink camellia oil, the beauty secret of geishas, ​​but whose power is increased tenfold by a patented cold fermentation system. All this with the scent of the iconic oil that gives its name to this new line.

Performance and aesthetics

“Obviously, there is a desire to offer something more advanced. For me, the two leading brands in this revolution are Olaplex and K18. The first came with patent and molecular level hair effectiveness. It was an innovation when the market and brands were stagnating,” says Chloe Arriona. Olaplex is now distributed at Sephora, a brand that has decided to develop a true destination in 2021. Hair Care, even if it has already specified several brands. It now offers about thirty, between market references (Leonor Greil or Christophe Robin) and influence babies (Gisou). Facing this consumer desire for more sophisticated and effective products, brands such as Augustinus Bader and Dr. Barbara Sturm, developed their range as a bonus by foraying into nutritional supplements. The first puts its famous TFC8 technology (a complex of natural amino acids, vitamins and synthetic molecules found in the skin) at the heart of its Hair collection. And especially after recommending an anti-aging shampoo, Dr. Barbara Sturm bets on her growth cycle hair supplements, which contain a powerful nutrient complex and the star ingredient, mylicin. This specifically stimulates keratinocyte metabolism and strengthens the collagen content around the hair bulb.

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Chloé Arjona, head of beauty at NellyRodi trend office

With prices ranging from 40 to 90 euros, these products come to blow the hair budget. “When you see the success of a brand like Dyson and the price some people are willing to pay for their hair dryers (The supersonic model is shown at 429 €, editor’s note), we understand that today’s concerns are different. Especially if there is a result, analyzes Chloe Aryona. It should also be said that the epidemic happened. People were deprived of barbershops. This prompted them to invest in a desire to provide professional results at home. Hence, the search for more efficient products, but also aesthetics, which is much more important than before, in the age of images and social networks. Chic packaging, sleek design… we’re far from a fancy plastic bottle that we leave lying on the shower floor.

“We all want everything that makes up our bathroom to be beautiful. This is also the secret: well-designed products that are in tune with the times,” adds Chloe Arjona. Does that mean that these hair marketing campaigns are a way to entice a younger audience? “It is not necessary, because the prices are far from affordable. And make-up already has this function. Rather, it’s a way for brands to expand their reach and a real lever for growth. And this is part of a more complete vision of beauty.” The global vision of the sector, which is also the engine of Nuxe, as Christine Delfo-Sarah says: “Taking care of yourself, doing good, is a topic that doesn’t stop at the skin.” Enough to offer the hair care market a bright future.

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Source: Le Figaro

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