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Brittany in winter. five sites of fusion with the elements

Want to hear the sound of waves crashing on the rocks? To see the foam flakes fly. See how the seagulls playing in the foam swell? So many promises made thanks to a winter escape to the sea. This season allows you to enjoy a more secret Brittany, where you may even feel alone in the world… More invigorating too. From the coastal paths, with all care, immerse yourself in the wild in its raw state and measure the power of the elements that shape it. The sky and the sea merge into a ‘glaze’ color, halfway between blue, green and grey… A lively scene, mesmerizing in places, to be enjoyed in all seasons. Because you have to know how to deal with the (often) harsh weather, and winter walks along the Breton coast really don’t lack for air. Are you ready for a good treatment of sea spray and sea air?

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In Saint-Malo to experience the high tides (Ille-et-Vilaine)

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Saint-Malo is home to the highest tides in Europe. Saint Malo Tourism

12 meters. This is the average difference between high tide and high tide during high tides in the Gulf of Saint-Malo. The most important in Europe. Here the ratio regularly exceeds 110. The phenomenon is particularly spectacular at high tide, when the waves crest the shores of Ceylon Beach. Place yourself on the ramparts of the course city, near the Gate of Saint-Thomas, to view it in complete safety. At low tide the landscape becomes downright lunar. Take the opportunity to stroll around Grand Bay Island.

The next high tides January 23 and 24, February 21 to 23, March 22 to 24, 2023.

How to access it? By train, TGV from Paris Gare Montparnasse (average journey time: 2h45). By car, from Paris, take the A11 to Rennes, then the D 137.

Our advice: Follow the tour “Along the highest tides in Europe” offered by Sensations littoral. At the mostly uncovered Malwin Beach, a naturalist guide helps you understand the phenomenon as well as its effect on the coast (ie the part of the coast that is covered and exposed).

In Cap d’Erquy, to have your eyes on the “glaze” (Côtes-d’Armor)

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Not green, not blue, not grey, but a little bit of the three, it’s the color of Cap d’Erquy. Alexandre Lamoureux / OT Cap d’Erquy

Not blue, green or grey, but a bit of all of these depending on the light, the weather or even the mood of the day. As you stroll along Cap d’Erquy, immerse yourself in the famous Breton “glaze”, symbolizing the thousand shades of sky and sea. This pink sandstone promontory, linked to its neighbor Cap Fréhel, is one of France’s great sites. Take the GR 34 on foot and enjoy wonderful views of the wonderful sandy beaches or the island of Saint-Michel, surrounded by a small chapel. By bike, across the sea, that’s nice too.

How to access it? By car from Paris, take the A11 to Rennes, then the N12. By train, TGV Paris-Brest, stop at Saint-Brieuc or Lamballe station.

Our advice: The port of Ercoux is Brittany’s first port for fly fishing; the return of the boats is a common sight in winter and not to be missed. As for walnuts, you can taste them in a restaurant or buy them directly from local fishermen.

Landonvez on the tourist route facing the sea breezes (Finistère)

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Ireland? Missed! Colin Le Roy / Brest Ocean Lands

Go all the way west. At the northern end of Finisterre, the most westerly of France, on the Llandudnoys tourist route, is a mock Irish air. A wild landscape alternating with rocks and dunes blown by sea winds. Winter here is stunning. On stormy days, a walk along this 5 km coastal path is even a “must”. Follow it from Portsal, famous for the Amoco Cadiz wreck, to Penfoul beach, a popular spot for surfers. On the way, don’t miss the Chapel of Saint-Samson, secluded on its coast and ultra-photogenic.

How to access it? From Brest, take the direction of Saint-Renan on the D5 and D 105, then the D68 to Argenton. Facing the sea, turn right on the D27 and follow the signs for “Route turistike de Landunvez”. Allow 40 minutes. Several parking lots along the road.

Our advice: After the ride, warm up with tea and crepes at Le Chenal, Porspoder. This former popular dance hall is today a cafe, a restaurant, a bookshop, an exhibition gallery… and a true local institution.

On the Isle of Seine, to take a deep breath of iodine (Finistère)

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Ile de Seine, a car-free island battered by winds and tides. Emmanuel Bertier

Brittany in winter means offering you the chance of an island… just for you. On the Seine, step out of the car and you’re in for the most exciting experience on the island. 5 km from Pointe du Raz, the island seems to rest in the ocean… Past the harbor alleys and its colorful houses, it’s just you and the sea, beaten by the wind and tide. A real encounter with nature. Count on less than 2 hours for the walk, between creeks and gravel. Don’t leave without tasting the oysters grown at the foot of the lighthouse or even the lobster stew, the island’s “specialty”.

How to access it? Penn Ar Bed provides a daily tour to and from the Audierne ferry terminal. Return ticket: 30 euros. Pass: 1 hour.

Our advice: go kayaking with île de Sein Nautisme to meet the inhabitants of the chaussée de Sein, gray seals and bottlenose dolphins. Always magical! The trip lasts 2 hours and equipment is provided: lycra, fleece, hat… We promise, we are less cold than we think.

On the wild coast of Quiberon to see the waves break (Morbihan)

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Watching this raging sea is like taking an ice shower. But the game is worth the candle. Loïc Kersuzan / Quiberon Tourism

Rocks shattered by the spray, an arch pierced by the ocean… The view of the waves breaking on the rocks in calm weather is already stunning here. So imagine a strong wind warning. facing the raging sea, we are full of eyes and ears. And often even the shower. In the beautiful winter sun, the wild coast of Quiberon takes on some pretty golden reflections. To think, 8 km along the coastal path, from Pointe du Percho to the tip of Beg-er-Goalenec. From here, if the sky is clear, enjoy the beautiful panorama of Belle-île-en-Mer, which is right in front.

How to access it? From Van, follow the N165 to Auray, then the D768 to Saint-Pierre-Quiberon. The coastal road starts from the village of Portiv. Several parking lots along the road.

Our advice: Do you like seafood? Book a table at Le Vivier restaurant for a taste…with a stunning view of the wild coast and ocean (reopening early February).

This article, published in January 2022, is subject to update.

Source: Le Figaro

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