All Corsicans will tell you that it is best to land on the Isle of Beauty in the off-season. And of all the charming villages in Corsica, one town emerges as the refuge of choice in autumn: Bonifacio. Reasons include the still good weather (22°C during the day, the same for water), more affordable prices and the guarantee of avoiding the summer flood of tourists (about 2 million per year). We will most willingly shelter there during this time when international travel is at risk.
At the southern end of the country, the ancient city of Genoese offers landscapes and beaches that were thought to be made for long-distance travel. “We arrive at a wonderful harbor surrounded on all sides by a steep cliffHomer was already boasting The Odyssey. Ever since the towering ivory cliffs saw Ulysses land on Corsican soil, Bonifacio seems to have retained all its wild luster, a setting suspended between sea and maquis, with Italy and the Sardinian coast standing out in the background. You have to climb the footpaths, immerse yourself in the Mediterranean essence of the maquis, or climb the winding (and steep) alleys of the Old Town to fully appreciate the situation. A wave-carved limestone archipelago bordered by turquoise waters and jagged coves, it reveals its full identity as it finds its village rhythm.
Discover the maquis, the passion of vintage
Let’s go up, so preferably early in the morning, on the heights of the old city, for a walk Saint Roch Chapel. take Campu Romanilu trail (literally, “fields of rosemary”). in a few minutes you find yourself immersed in the maquis. The hike continues along the cliffs with the walls at the back Bonifacio Citadel which light up little by little. The panorama of the city attracts photographers from all over the world. On the right, Sardinia appears in brass.
After summer, no ship, no sound pierces the immensity of the bay. Macis is fragrant. rosemary, of course, lentil pistachio or immortal, “Corsican gold”, from which they make oils for 3000 euros per liter. After the traffic lights, take Pertusato road to reach the lighthouse of the same name. A little more effort (the place has to be earned) and you land on the fine sandy beach of St. Antoine, its crystal clear water full of fish, its open-air moon caves. A rock in the shape of a stuck boat will serve as a landmark. Count between 1h30 and 2h.
Kiss Bonifacio on the lips
South Corsica can be visited both by land and by sea.When you see the color of the water, the beauty of these coves, there is no need to go to the Maldives” smiles Yves, driving his speedboat along the limestone cliffs at 30 knots. Settled in Bonifacio for 30 years, this skipper never left, falling madly in love with the southern tip of the island, like many of the island’s 3,000 or so inhabitants. It’s mostly for preserved beauty Bonifacio’s mouthsa marine nature reserve that welcomes a thousand and one faces.
Deserted anchorages are revealed 5 minutes from the port. howFazio’s Cove where the water is so clear that you can spot a coin 5 meters deep. Then moving on toCavallo Island, known as “millionaires” for its lavish architect-designed homes that hide a handful of stars. Stop at a restaurantfishermen’s hotel, at lunch with your feet in the water. From there, a trip to Laves Islands it seems mandatory. There we bathe with the fishes, not ashamed of a penny, listening to the gray shearing waters, whose song reminds us of a crying child. The men have a smile on their face.
Euro Yacht, marina, northern port. Daily charter speed boat with professional skipper (reservation required). Such. 04 95 73 70 18. Until October 31.
Putting yourself on the green at Sperone
It is one of the most beautiful in Europe, golfers will say. One of the most beautiful in the world, the Corsicans will rightfully correct you. that Sperone Golf Course is in any case the southernmost of metropolitan France. Set in nearly 80 hectares of covered maquis, the 18 holes look out over the countryside Bonifacio Bay following the curves of the rocks.
Be careful not to get distracted by the panoramic view of white sand beaches with turquoise waters, the Lavesci Islands and Sardinia will leave you with no privacy. The 16th hole even forces players to ‘drive’ over the sea, so much so that the little ones have fun diving to scoop out the little white balls in the middle of the fish…
Sperone Golf Course, Sperone Domain. €90 per person green fee in mid-season. Such. 04 95 73 17 13:
Admire the citadel from the sky
What could be better than gaining a little height to see all these wonders at a glance? Seen from heaven, Bonifacio reveals his true character. From Porto Vecchio to the citadel, flying over the Lavesci Islands by helicopter, you can better discover this small piece of the island that still refuses concrete and McDonald’s. A lucky anomaly, a piece of land torn from the sea barely tamed by man.
Héli Sud Corse, road to Bonifacio, Porto-Vecchio. €220 per person for a 30-minute flight. Such. 04 95 72 18 63.
Practical notebook
OR SLEEP
Cala di Greco
Cala di Greco is not a four-star hotel like the others. This charming lodge looks like a small Mediterranean village immersed in the maquis, composed of bright single-story suites secluded in a private courtyard. The infinity pool offers an exceptional view of the harbor and the citadel.
Hotel Cala di Greco, Bancarello, 20169 Bonifacio. From €170 per night mid-season. Such. 04 95 73 70 74.
GOOD TABLES
That’s Pasano
At Port Bonifacio, Corsican specialties are revisited in tapas. In a sleek nautical cocoon designed by Philippe Starck collaborator Patrice Gardera, we share resolutely contemporary dishes that borrow from the local terroir. The signature dish of the house, the sea bass tartare with hazelnut crumble, goes perfectly with the Migliaccioli (Corsican tome doughnut). A pleasure. The restaurant doubles as a delicacy with local produce.
Da Passano, 53 quai Jérôme Comparetti, 20169 Bonifacio. Tapas from €10 to €38 à la carte. Such. 04 95 28 10 90.
The A Cheda
A few minutes’ drive from the city, hidden in the luxurious garden of Hotel A Cheda, is a beautiful gastronomic address listed in the Michelin guide. You can taste the specialties of the local fishery (from lobster remoulade as an appetizer to hazelnut crunch for the main course). For desserts, the pastry chef works wonderfully with figs, the island’s leading fruit. Free shipping on request.
L’A Cheda, Cavallo Morto, 20169 Bonifacio. Menu from 59 euros. Such. 04 95 73 03 82.
[Cet article, initialement publié en octobre 2020, a fait l’objet d’une mise à jour.]
Source: Le Figaro
