“I love blazers, especially the structured shoulder cuts that are everywhere right now. But they don’t quite match my daily uniform of jeans and sneakers. Is there an in-between? A jacket for every daybear ? Alice, 32 years old.
There’s really nothing like a nice jacket to free up your available brain time in the morning in front of your wardrobe. On “inspiration failure” days, just slip it on and that’s it. Especially since it goes with (almost) everything: pants, dresses, t-shirts, sweaters… and jeans! With one gesture, you are elegant, ready to face the outside world. This is called power sauce. In the late 1970s, some creators became specialists in it. Let’s mention only Yves Saint Laurent, Thierry Mugler, Giorgio Armani and Max Mara. Recently, Hedi Slimane at Celine and Matthieu Blazy for Bottega Veneta took and cut today’s jackets like no other. So timeless that they will have an impact for years to come.
But let’s be honest, dear Alicia, even the most beautiful jacket signed by a famous fashion name, for which you will have to spend almost a thousand euros, will only be worth the investment if it fits you. It’s all about the cut (adapted to your morphology) and fabric (adapted to your use).
So your life (and so many women’s) would be easier if you just had to push the door of any tailor like a man in such a case to get the size you want and the one you want. Unfortunately, most of these suit professionals will politely decline your request on the pretext that, for the client, “Really dedicated expertise is needed”can we read on the website of Julien Scavini, a Parisian tailor who needs no introduction?
Finding a “women’s suit” is not easy, but it is actually possible. Some neighborhood seamstresses will be happy to handle the job. There are also some new players in the niche, such as 17H10, a young brand specializing in women’s jackets and pants, launched in 2018 by Caroline Ray and Amelie Delacour. A semi-annual service that requires patience and a certain budget (from 495 euros for the classic model at 17H10) that can be given away for a special occasion, wedding or ceremony and perhaps brought back to “real life”. As for the ready-to-wear offering, you’ll find all kinds of fitted polyester jackets at most fast fashion the latest luxury blazer branded by the great house.
It remains only to avoid pitfalls and prejudices when it comes to fittings. “First of all, I always advise my clients not to give in to the trend”, insists Natalie Oliver, personal stylist at Bon Marché Rive Gauche’s private salons. As you rightly noted, the trend is the “1980s” jacket, shouldered, loose and long. A shape that’s certainly popular with influencers and lecterns, but one that isn’t one size fits all. And, in particular, to small jigs. If this is your case, and despite everything you still wanted to rub your shoulders, advice: And you’ll also have to swap your sneakers for a pair of heels…
But rest assured, according to a department store expert, “You can find very nice jackets at Paul & Joe. With their shimmering fabrics and jacquard prints, they have the virtue of not being boring. The ones made by Vanessa Bruno are also very good, especially in tweed. Otherwise, Ralph Lauren always offers a wide selection of classic shapes that more or less suit all body types and all styles. To try on the American designer, the gold-buttoned blazer with a navy blue shirt, a cousin of the famous double-breasted copper-buttoned jacket worn by the Royal Navy to welcome Queen Victoria aboard in 1837. On the other hand, with an easy-breasted style, it’s better to show off a flat stomach behind its double-breasted top.
In general, in the fitting room, if you’re having trouble buttoning a coveted model, give up and forget about it. “I was planning to lose two kilos” where? “At least I’m not going to close.” In addition, prioritize the quality of the fabric over the “brand”. wool blends provide better durability. A detail that is different is the height of the buttons and pockets. A few inches too low and it’s a disaster. Check your image in the mirror. Finally, sleeve length is a crucial issue. Even Natalie Oliver agrees. “We see a lot of women on the street or in the subway wearing jackets with sleeves that eat their arms. It spoils the whole look.” Fortunately, this small flaw can easily be fixed with a good retoucher.
Source: Le Figaro
