“Recently, I heard on the radio one of our ministers who announced that from now on he will wear the turtle under his jacket. Is this the best sweater choice to slip under a suit? If not, which one should I choose if I want to brave the cold this winter and be stylish in the office?” Reno, 56 years old.
Dear Reno, it is true that we have talked so little about turtles recently. The fault, as you point out, is the statements of Bruno Le Maire, who announced a few weeks ago that we will not see him again. “with a tie, but with a turtleneck”. A consequence of the government’s goal of reducing national energy consumption by 10% and the accompanying reduction in heating. Far be it from us to enter into the debates over energy sobriety or the paternalism of power pointed out by many editors. To answer you, it will only be a question of elegance.
Should you wear a sweater under your jacket? Some will tell you that a tweed or wool flannel jacket is warm enough that you can do (at least indoors) without an extra layer. They may be right, but that’s not the point. In any case, let’s say that the choice depends on several parameters. First, and probably most important of all, is the thickness of said mesh. You know that blazers and suit jackets are cut to be worn over a shirt, by definition much more subtle than a sweater. So to avoid being too bulky with your suit and to control your movements, it is recommended to choose a fine knit sweater rather than a thick knit like a shetland. Models made of fine cashmere or merino wool will keep you warm without creating an unpleasant effect, especially on the sleeves. And you can even wear a shirt underneath if needed.
Then comes the color test. If you are a lover of mismatch (different colored blazer and pants), then any shade in the fabric of your jacket will be suitable. Similarly, a cream knit, although messy, will go with everything and have the same effect as a flawless shirt. With a matching suit, your options are more limited. a pattern that matches the fabric of the suit or a model in a dark color is the best option for you.
The turtle neck remains the most common choice
Finally, which sweater collar is the best? In the 1970s, it was not uncommon to see men wearing shirts and ties under their V-neck sweaters. It’s much less so today, because to work this association requires taming many elements: the depth of the V, the collar. shirt (which should not exceed the sweater), tie knot, etc. Some men are very good at wearing a cardigan under a cardigan. Good news, this somewhat dated combo is making a real comeback. As evidenced by woolen vests in purple, green or another bold color worn under a tweed jacket or a navy blue blazer that upholds the standard of English Drake’s. At your own risk – fantasy is never easy to master.
So here we go back to the turtle neck, which remains the most common choice. Invented for sport in the late 19th centurye century, this pullover made its way into our wardrobes in the 1960s. Becoming the uniform of intellectuals (Samuel Beckett, Michel Foucault), it also dresses university professors and politicians on vacation, in cream, Georges Pompidou, or black, Nicolas Sarkozy;
Personally, we prefer a long-sleeve knit polo shirt (in merino wool or cashmere).
This winter, Bruno Le Maire and Emmanuel Macron are therefore making it a political message beyond clothing. So, if you’re looking to impersonate a significant other (or if you are), a turtleneck would be the ideal sweater… although let’s be honest, it doesn’t suit everyone. You see, the catch is that by completely covering the neck, it isolates the face, allowing it to float, making it rounder (imagine a turtle poking its head out of its shell, by the way, the English call it: turtle neck) Not to mention that at a time when more and more men are sporting beards, extra thick hair paired with a turtle neck can quickly make you look like you’re wearing a balaclava.
Personally, we prefer a long-sleeve knit polo shirt (in merino wool or cashmere), which has the advantage of being thin enough to slip under a blazer and has a shirt-like collar. That way you can button it up or, conversely, leave three buttons open (if you’re going on vacation to Capri, for example).
Source: Le Figaro
