We thought the Vetements brand was gone with the parade of the new name VTMNTS last March. But Guram Gvasalia, its co-founder (with his brother Demna, artistic director of Balenciaga), is full of surprises… And now the brand is taking back its original name during Couture Week, but not for the official show. calendar.
” This is my first real collectionexplains Gvasalia. In December, when all the models were masked, and last March, it was just an introduction to my universe. I wanted to feature couture this week because I feel like it’s losing its luster at the moment.This new phase of the brand’s “relaunch” is very autobiographical; Gvasalia multiplies references to her childhood as a refugee (such as this veil reminiscent of her childhood teddy bear, or these large plaid ponchos, references to “ The blankets given to us by the Red Cross, the only coat we could wear at the timeto his punk youth in Germany (ripped jeans, ultra-loose t-shirts and tops, giant boots) or to his struggle with depression when he was even younger (the cover).I’m not doing sh*t today“, it is ” I’m not doing anything today“, in VF, introducing ” (his) state of mind during certain periods of his youth“), a tribute to grandma’s outfit… The iconic check prints of Tati bags (the show took place in the brand’s former store in Barbes, which is currently being renovated) are available with belted coats and trousers. ” When I started designing my own clothes during the war in Georgia, I could not afford raw materials. I cut these bags, put them together… I wanted to create the most luxurious version possible.He is not the first (Phoebe Philo and, above all, Azzedine Alaia and his fabulous summer 1991 collection, made entirely of the brand’s patterns, have previously interacted with them) to revisit these famous checks. But there is a special and very strong symbolism in seeing these prints in the highest state of luxury among the dilapidated walls of this former Parisian institution.
Continuing what he started with his first show, the designer cut impeccable suit jackets with square shoulders and nipped-in waists, a banker striped wool suit or sweatshirt wool, washing them as if they were bleached; Gvasalia from a washing accident during his student years. Other jackets are worn inside or slipped under an oversized white t-shirt (it’s a safe bet we’ll be seeing youngsters emulating this association soon). The faces of this cast of all ages, often with hair blown up (must have needed pounds of hairspray), paintball masks and Oakley sports glasses.
The last look is about the couture side. a stunning backless gown (and matching petticoat) is covered in tulle, another gala gown is draped in a long candy pink veil, a cotton candy organza gown is spent on Stop. Being Rich” cover. ” This cover has a message. I think the world has become too rich– smiles the designer. Today, everything costs a lot of money, to the point that clothes and organizing a parade become unaffordable. The whole industry is going crazy.“When you’ve had success with logo T-shirts selling for several hundred euros, such a postulate might make you smile. But Vetements can always be counted on to take a wry look at the industry and itself.
Source: Le Figaro
