Black makeup artist denounces Mari Saad for excluding dark skin in new makeup line

On September 28th, digital influencer Mari Saad introduced her new cosmetics line to the Brazilian market, called Mascavo, standing out for its promise of high quality products. However, just over a week after launch, the brand was the target of severe criticism due to the limited range of shades suitable for dark black skin.

Among the items available, such as contours, stick highlighters and powder tanners, there was a consensus that they did not meet the needs of people with darker skin.

In response to the criticism received, Saad recognized the flaw and committed to launching new shades. However, many consumers argued that the absence of these colors was not a mere oversight, but rather a deliberate choice. “It’s your brand and you decide who you want to sell it to,” commented a follower on the influencer’s social media. Another criticism reinforced: “Choosing not to include is to exclude.”

Despite significant advances in the cosmetic sector, there is still difficulty for individuals with black skin, especially dark skin, to find products suitable for their tone. A notable example occurred in 2024, when North American brand Youthforia faced controversy after launching a foundation whose formula resembled black gouache paint.

Influencer reviews

At the time, makeup artist Emerson Damas harshly criticized what happened, using the term “cosmetic racism”, coined by makeup artist and journalist Tássio Santos.

Emerson Damas recently spoke again about the incident involving Mascavo: “Unfortunately, the situation reveals that the beauty industry has not yet fully assimilated the demands of black and dark skin. Mari Saad classified as an error reflects a restrictive view of the market and constitutes cosmetic racism. We cannot accept makeup lines that exclude a significant part of the population.”

Checkers argues that companies must invest in research and development with increased responsibility, starting with the inclusion of black professionals in the creative process: “It is essential that both the tones and textures of products are designed to take into account the diversity of skin. Only in this way can we avoid errors and achieve true inclusion”.

The makeup artist also highlights that products for dark skin are often treated as a niche rather than an integral part of the market: “In Brazil, where we are the majority, it is crucial to recognize this reality. Treating products for dark skin as an extra results in poorly planned launches . Brands need to design their lines considering all diversity from the beginning.”