Last night, at the end of Shanghai Fashion Week, the Italian luxury brand unveiled its sixth ‘Moncler Genius’ edition in front of 8,000 guests from a multidisciplinary lineup of artists including ASAP Rocky and Willow Smith.
Last night in Shanghai, the 30,000 square meters of the CSSC pavilion, this huge historic shipyard straddling the Huangpu River, looked like something straight out of the Black Mirror series or the legendary Blade Runner. Right here, in the heart of the Chinese metropolis, where steel towers and glass skyscrapers rise from the earth as if to conquer the sky, Remo Ruffini, CEO of Moncler, decided to present his sixth edition of Moncler Genius. a visionary and creative laboratory that has invited artists from all fields of film, art, music, entertainment and fashion since 2018 to create capsules for the world’s most popular jacket brand.
Rihanna, Anne Hathaway and Yeonju
On this occasion, the huge area has been transformed into a futuristic metropolis, which this year hosts the collections of the eight “geniuses” invited to Shanghai, like a high-tech and artistic amusement park, where each one offers its own universe and its own reinterpretation of the Moncler label. . Artist Xu Bing’s installation around Chinese calligraphy first welcomes guests, including several thousand “cool kids” from Shanghai who belong to the Montclair community. Rihanna enters. she came to support her fiance ASAP Rocky who is one of this year’s designers. Anne Hathaway, Korean singer Yeonjun and other adored Gen Z celebrities also sit in carts designed to tour the giant city, with interconnected booths that vibrate with sounds, lights and giant computer-style video screens. A show of strength to match Moncler’s cheeky figures, the brand was originally created for high alpine skiers seventy years ago in Monestier-de-Clermont near Grenoble. While the luxury sector is currently experiencing a tense economic context, the house bought by Italian entrepreneur Remo Ruffini in 2003 is closing this year with an 11% turnover in the first half.
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The brand has been working with the Chinese authorities for a year to host this huge event and can boast of bringing together the largest number of people for a fashion event in China. Here, not the mysterious city of Blue Lotus, game rooms, opium dens or gangsters, described in the Tintin album, which is staged, but futuristic Shanghai, bubbling and explosive, a metropolis, appeared in the vortex of money. resonates with this edition called Moncler’s City of Genius.
Palm trees or extreme temperatures
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There are eight “geniuses” this year. Among them is Edward Enninful, editorial advisor to British Vogue, who returns to his design roots to present a sleek and functional wardrobe frozen in time in a weather station setting, in alluring black designed for extreme temperatures. A little further on, a garden of sorts, bathed in orange, hosts a workwear collection designed by actor-singer-producer Donald Glover (seen on Community or Atlanta). Then the palm-lined karting track becomes part of the decor. Here we are in Palm Angels, where the cars go full speed ahead with drivers in shiny metallic overalls with vintage accents at the wheel.
ASAP Rocky exits the elevator. He is one of the stars invited to work on Moncler’s Alpine DNA. In its futuristic booth, where AI-generated images swirl around mannequins, the atmosphere mixes biker accents and trapeze hats reimagined as helmets in red, blue, yellow, orange, and green accented with black and ivory. Another sequence, another scene with singer Willow Smith, another Gen Z slasher icon, who also signs her Moncler edition. Will Smith’s daughter arrived accompanied by her mother, Jada Pinkett, and she’s showing off her pieces meant for the mountains, accompanied by armored dresses in a post-apocalyptic garden setting.
Between art and fashion
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The popular jackets have also been revisited by Chinese artist LuLu Li, with gorgeous white versions like belted opera dresses, while Japanese streetwear pioneer Hiroshi Fujiwara with his label FRGMT spins them in blacker colors on a dark and fluid surface. The latest in this creative line, Nigo, Kenzo’s AD, also presents his utopian vision of Moncler with a collection created in collaboration with Mercedes-Benz. In the program, the G Class, this off-road legend was revised for the occasion (and available for purchase in limited quantities) and a capsule of yellow quilted jackets, t-shirts and college t-shirts.
In addition to soul and adrenaline, Moncler also highlighted collections by Rick Owens (including gorgeous capes in subtle black, white and earth tones) and Jil Sander. The latter, led by the duo of Lucy and Luke Mayer, is the only one to parade in an immaculate circular space framed by walls projecting snowy landscapes. Their poetic collection of soft clothes in red, white or pink monochromes contrasted with the chaotic outside world.
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Finally, another superstar, prodigy composer and multi-instrumentalist Henri Lau. Born to a Hong Kong father and a Taiwanese mother, this Canadian performed his greatest hits, leaving the young guests in Shanghai speechless. Shortly after, ASAP Rocky also closed the event with a private showcase at the Bulgari Hotel in Shanghai. Release capsules will be released immediately during 2024 and 2025.
Source: Le Figaro
