These stars of Parisian gastronomy have gone out into the wild to reap what they sow, cultivate a different relationship with the world, and open a restaurant. Recipes for a life full of philosophy.
Yvelines, Manche, Essonne, Hérault. these four sections have recently welcomed Parisian chefs in need of nature. More precisely, in search of vegetable gardens. Thus, Cybèle Idelot, Thomas Benadi, James Henry and Amelie Darvas respectively opened Ruche, Gamba, L’Auberge Sauvage, Servon, Le Doyenné, Saint-Vrain and Äponem, L’Auberge du presbytère at Vailhan. And, courageously, they led the construction of their facility and the creation of their vegetable garden. Because they didn’t leave town for a change of scenery. Above all, they want to put their hands in the soil and grow the fruits and vegetables they prepare. “Reconnection with animals,” they unanimously claim.
The foundations of cohesion
The move is not entirely surprising. For several years now, chefs have been emphasizing the special ties that unite them with producers. The names Bachès for citrus fruits, Ospital for cured meats, Casanova for olive oils, Yamashita or Thiébault for vegetables, or even Bertin for herbs gradually fill the names of their menus. And their curiosity about the work behind the produce made them want to go further…and why not have a vegetable garden. But unlike Alain Passard, who for twenty years supplied Arpège, his Parisian restaurant, with fruit and vegetables from his gardens in Normandy and the Sartes, these chefs have opened a restaurant a short distance from their pea plants. .
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In addition to having the tomato varieties of their dreams, selected for their suitable maturity, they want to visit their plots every day, contribute to its development by respecting the soil, participate in the harvest, find inspiration. … A choice that often goes hand in hand with a change in perspective from a team management perspective. At a time when the sector is struggling to recruit, the managers of these farms are also rethinking the way they work, offering lighter rhythms while involving their employees in maintaining the gardens that are the basis of cohesion. Would a vegetable garden be the best way to develop a new humanity in the kitchen?
Amelie Darvas and Gabi Benicio. Äponem, The Presbytery Inn
The first is a chef, the second is a sommelier. Their duet became famous at Haï Kaï, their Parisian restaurant. Change of scenery in July 2018. They fall in love with the presbytery and its vegetable garden in Vailhan, one of Hero’s villages. Since then, they have been growing their own vegetables, fruits and the unique energy associated with working with living things can be found on Äponem’s plates at their dedicated table.
Mrs. Figaro: Why this desire for a vegetable garden and since when?
Amelie Darvas and Gabi Benicio. There is nothing more sacred than cultivating the land and being as close as possible to the living. Especially when you own a restaurant, when you feed people. When we were in Paris, having our own vegetable garden was already a dream, but we thought it was impossible.
How did this project come about?
We came across this doctrine for sale while on vacation. It was there that we had to put our suitcases… Especially since there was a vegetable garden, now we have seven. To develop it, we got help by choosing to respect local farming methods. Gradually we invested in other plots, expanded our harvest. Our activity does not allow us to be there enough, we have collaborators who take care of it. We are now working on living soils, an approach that goes beyond permanent culture.
Your connection to this vegetable garden today.
Every recipe starts with it. He is the primary inspiration. We go there every day for our crops. The vegetable garden is also a psychological resource. There is something magical about sowing, seeing growth, which gives hope for life, for the future. And this animal vibe carries over into our kitchen.
1, rue de l’Eglise, 34320 Vailhan. aponem-aubergedupresbytere.fr:
Thomas Benady: L.Wild Inn
The chef, despite the success of his restaurants La Machine à Coudes in Boulogne-Billancourt and Orties in Paris, has decided to exit. Tired of the city but passionate about the produce, he approached some of the breeders and fishermen he was already working with and planted his own vegetable garden in the garden of a 16th-century presbytery in Cervonne, on the Bay of Mont-Saint-Michel.e century. His Auberge Sauvage, which opened in June 2020, reflects his obsession with local and “seasonal”.
Mrs. Figaro: Why this desire for a vegetable garden and since when?
Thomas Benady: My food is pretty plant-based and I’ve always had a lot of fun meeting the market gardeners and understanding their work. So this desire was anchored in me. As soon as I had the chance, I decided to cultivate this dream vegetable garden…even if I had no experience.
How did this project come about?
When I learned that there is a business for sale in Cervon, I went with my family to see the place. And it was obvious: we were going to settle there and establish a vegetable garden. We arrived in February 2020. I designed the vegetable garden with a friend who now takes care of it. The pandemic forced us to revise our plans, I had time to learn a little more about the limitations and joys of the vegetable garden…
Your connection to this vegetable garden today.
He is my breath of fresh air and my source of inspiration even if he is still young. It takes about three years for the vegetable garden to be really productive, but it already provides some of our red fruits, beets, Jerusalem artichokes, artichokes, swiss chard, purple beans… We are self-sufficient in peas, beans, garlic, etc. aromatic herbs. When we arrived, there were already fruit trees (apples, pears, cherries), we planted peach and apricot trees.
3, place Saint-Martin, 50170 Servon. aubergesauvage.fr:
Cybele Idelot. The Beehive, at Domaine Les Bruyères
American chef Cybèle Idelot had already proven her passion for nature at her Table de Cybèle in Boulogne-Billancourt. In 2018, he decided to grow his own fruits and vegetables. Finally, the project will be more ambitious with guest rooms and an all-you-can-eat sublimated vegetable garden product on a stone.
Mrs. Figaro: Why this desire for a vegetable garden and since when?
Cybele Idelot. I have always liked the products and have been in direct contact with the suppliers. I wanted to grow my own vegetables. So my husband Frank and I told ourselves we would find land in the heart of the Rambouillet National Forest, a cocoon of unspoiled nature. And we chose this family property. I immediately saw the potential to put our vegetable garden there, but also to open another restaurant, Ruche, and guest rooms.
How did this project come about?
We carried out the works and the creation of a permaculture vegetable garden, developed by a specialist. The vegetable garden has evolved over the years. Today it occupies almost 2000 square meters (we started with 1000) and together with the greenhouse is our main supply for the restaurant. This spring-summer we will be 95% self-sufficient in vegetables. Currently, we only buy asparagus and mushrooms from two nearby producers.
Your connection to this vegetable garden today.
It’s at the heart of Rouche’s life and my cooking. My teams there collect the ingredients for our dishes every day. And every Thursday morning the room and kitchen staff work on it. The vegetable garden then becomes a great team building tool. This evokes strong emotions, which also explains my zero-waste approach.
251, avenue de Neuville, Les Pideaux, 78950 Gambais. domainslesbruyeres.com
James Henry and Sean Kelly. Dean’s office
Australian chef James Henry went green in Essonne after rising to fame at Au Passage in Paris and his Bones restaurant. It was by chance that he discovered Le Doyenne there. Then he decided to set up a farm-restaurant-bed-and-breakfast there with Sean Kelly, another Australian chef. The adventure really began in 2017. The duo is passionate about their vegetable garden, cultivated with respect for the soil… so much so that a restaurant has just opened.
Mrs. Figaro: Why this desire for a vegetable garden and since when?
James Henry: I have always had a passion for good products. With my suppliers I discovered the seeds, the way to cultivate the soil. In 2016, I happened to visit Le Doyenne in Saint-Vrain. Don’t click!
How did this project come about?
I had never thought of devoting myself to agriculture. When Sean and I visited this abandoned estate, we saw the opportunity to make a restaurant and build a vegetable garden. Sean was passionate about farming and I created a planting schedule based on the menus I had in mind. The vegetable garden was taken over, and the opening of the restaurant was postponed. We were alone for the first two years, then in 2019 we hired someone to work full-time in the half-hectare vegetable garden.
Your connection to this vegetable garden today.
The opening of the restaurant is an important event, the symbiosis I was looking for. In summer, the garden will provide 95% of fruits and vegetables. It will be less in winter, we will turn to other producers. Every morning, the chefs collect the products for service. They see what nature gives and demands. This vegetable garden inspires respect even in management. here the employees work every 35 hours so that they have the opportunity to flourish outside as well.
5, rue Saint-Antoine, 91770 Saint-Vrain. ledoyennerestaurant.com
Source: Le Figaro
