Paris Fashion Week. Alessandro Michele’s Roman Follies comes to Valentino

After Alessandro Michele left Gucci in 2022, the world of fashion gradually lost color, a little of its grandeur, gradually passing under the flag. quiet luxury this minimalism is as chic as it is restrained, which has dominated in recent years. So when Jacopo Venturini, CEO of Valentino House, called him to take over the helm of the famous Italian house, and that after three days of negotiations, the latter said yes in March 2024, his maximalist sleazeballs went wild and the poetic began to dream again;

Just two months after his appointment, the Italian designer unveiled the first lavish and refined cruise collection of 171 silhouettes, where long silk floral dresses and seventies velvet suits, generously embellished with pearls and turbans, transported us straight to his dream aesthetic.

“When I left Gucci, I got the impression that most of the people I interacted with looked at me like King Midas,” he told the magazine in an interview. BOOF a few days ago. It must be said that at the height of his fame at Gucci, from 2015 to 2019, the star designer tripled the brand’s annual revenue to almost 10,000 euros, which was never a dizzying figure for the luxury industry. “But I don’t think Valentino’s calling is to become a multi-billion euro brand,” he told reporter Tim Blanks. It’s too big. You will destroy the beauty because it is as fragile as Mr. Valentino’s dresses in the past. It is a place that should be protected. It’s the greatest wardrobe ever.”

The enchantment of a haunted house

If the creator with the long hair and the beard in the hat does not want to be the one who hands out the gold, then he is still expected to be the messiah. It’s an understatement to say that his first ready-to-wear collection for Valentino is the craziest of fashion weeks this Spring/Summer 2025. has been going viral on TikTok since yesterday. This Sunday, September 29, a group of young people have already been posted since 11 am around the rather unusual place for the parade at 3 pm. They got the address on Twitter and are expecting celebrities and guests hoping to snap some eccentric looks. The first elected officials arrive in front of Le Dojo de Paris, the Judo Institute, a state-of-the-art building located in Paris’ Porte de Châtillon marked by a spherical copper dome shaped like a samurai helmet.

Inside, a vast black room awaits guests, lined with silhouetted curtains, furniture and lampshades draped like a haunted house. The ground is shattered like a broken mirror. Francois Henri-Pinault makes his entrance (Kering has finalized the acquisition of a 30% stake in Valentino in 2023) on Salma Hayek’s lap. The latter kisses Valeria Golino wearing a turban. Elton John and Harry Styles turn up the heat. Jared Leto, Alessandro’s indestructible twin brother, puts on a show in a richly embroidered blue kimono jacket. Andrew Garfield (Spiderman) is much wiser, Carla Bruni and her sister Valeria Bruni Tedeschi take a stand.

“The show’s about to start,” a voice says in the room. In this twilight oddity, the first model steps forward in a black dress with a ruffled hem over a white bib adorned with bow ties and red tights. Extravagance is back! Beauty, elegance and luxury too. Valentino spirit, are you there? Yes, there’s red, polka dots, necklaces galore, and pleated collars. For these Italian bourgeois women, dressing is an art, they want to escape the grayness of their surroundings and reproduce the Roman follies. As they take to the streets in lacy tights, the boys join them with their pearl necklaces and suede bags with fringes and studs, which they quickly steal from them. White shoes with black dots or pumps with ankle bows add even more style to the legs.

These day and night beauties parade in long, delicate and trendy dresses (very Valentino), wearing mini skirts trimmed with faux fur and jackets fastened with romantic bows. Embellishment cascades, tassels and flowers drape over boleros, maharaja turbans, veils and pheasant hats adorn the boldest styles, while buoys and opulent jewelery follow suit. A cat head bag is a “to impress” part of this wardrobe. And head jewelry and piercings bring an essential punk touch to this somewhat decadent aristocratic dance.

Moreover, some do not hesitate to go out in micro bras and silk negligees. Some play it more boyish with tuxedo jackets and trousers, while others recreate a more ’80s score with jeans and a gathered bubble bust. Alessandro Michele comes to say hello in jeans, a red plaid shirt and a hat. Applause. The guests seem captivated, those who watched it on their computer praise the beauty of the parade. Paris is still grey, but the urge to dress in something other than black may finally arise.