Peplum atmosphere at Dior, where vestal dresses liberate women’s bodies

High fashion asserts itself in the “extraordinary”. For some creatives, this necessarily translates into a show of strength where enthusiasm knows no bounds. Others, on the contrary, see it as a quest for absolute purity, a desire to exalt women against all odds. Maria Grazia Chiuri, artistic director of Dior’s women’s collections, is among the latter.

According to him, a piece of clothing symbolizes this desire to go straight to the essentials, a legendary vintage outfit already reinvented in 1946 by Monsieur Dior and his “Bar” jacket. For the Dior Haute Couture 2025 collection, presented on May 24, Maria Grazia Chiuri was inspired by it and revisited it in infinite poetic versions. The designer celebrates women’s bodies by weaving special clothes that emphasize their strength, attractiveness, individuality.

Air to a body in motion

The women here are not motionless Greek statues, they move in draped dresses that seem to hold each other only by grace. The entire collection is a nod to the body in motion, draped in muslins or metallic t-shirts so light that the breath takes them away. In the weeks leading up to the opening of the Olympics, silhouettes become sporty, with gold leaf playsuits, expensive capes, American armbands worn with skirt pants, high gladiator sandals for stadium goddesses. Each creation reflects a demand: absolute purity, clothing that is forgotten and frees the female body. This female emancipation, a constant search since antiquity, continues to be the driving force of Maria Grazia Chiuri.

Jennifer Lopez and Jisoo in the front row

The parade at the Rodin Museum, featuring the works of African-American activist artist Faith Ringgold, received a standing ovation. Many stars appeared in the front row: Deva Cassel, actresses Rosamund Pike, Kelly Rutherford, Suheila Yacoub and Letitia Casta in an ultra-sensual sheer navy dress. As with every outing, Blackpink singer Jisoo created a mini-riot. But this season, it was actress and singer Jennifer Lopez who created a sensation in a sculptural beige Dior dress.