Franz Beckenbauer’s three-piece jogging suit, Jenna de Rosnay’s neon one-piece… these iconic pieces inspired by athletes

Susan Lenglen’s Tennis Skirt (1919)

She was nicknamed “Divine” and she was the first star in women’s tennis. In July 1919, Susan Lenglen was only 20 years old when she won the Wimbledon final. On the court, the French woman is explosive, elegant and… scandalous. she appears in pleated silk skirts below the knee when decorum calls for young women to hit the ball in long dresses and sleeves. A bold move by designer Jean Patou. Fashion lovers will follow soon. Today, skirts have become much shorter, revealing a great deal of female anatomy.

“The tennis skirt is a bit like a garment that crystallizes the social debates of our time,” notes Carlin International trend expert Thomas Zilberman. It is definitely both emancipatory because it frees the movement, but so much more male veil (male gaze, editor’s note), very erotic. Furthermore, white, the traditional color of tennis codes, is unsafe for athletes during periods. A recently emerging demand theme that joins the fight for women’s freedom to dress how they want.

In 2018, Serena Williams hit the nail on the head when she arrived at Roland Garros a few months after giving birth to her daughter in an all-black lycra suit (a signature look). Scandal! To her critics, the champion replied that she wanted to “represent all the women who have had to go through trials, mentally and physically with their bodies, and who come back confident and believing in themselves.”

Steve Prefontaine’s Running Shoes (1974)

Little known on this side of the Atlantic, Steve Prefontaine is nevertheless a true icon of world sport. With his blond hair, his slim good looks, and his seventies mustache, he was one of the most promising long-distance runners America had ever known. Scouted by Nike, he competed in the 1972 Munich Olympics, where he excelled. The Swoosh brand, then in its infancy, created a sneaker for him, the Nike Waffle, named for its waffle-like sole.

While “Pre” died in a car accident in 1975 at the age of 24, his contribution to sneaker history is fundamental. In the 1980s, the running phenomenon (we didn’t say running yet) exploded. The rest is known: sneakers will no longer be reserved only for sports. Thomas Zilberman is categorical. “It’s a bit like reinventing the wheel in fashion, it’s almost civilized.” So when you put on your trendy sneakers to go to work, think jogging for James Dean.

Jenna de Rosnay’s Neon One Piece (1987)

“The mid-1980s was really the time when board sports like surfing, windsurfing and snowboarding were cool,” explains Thomas Zilbermann. Square shoulders, salt bleached blonde hair. American windsurfing champion Jenna de Rosnay then launched her own swimwear brand, called Jenna. And it’s a hit. She will soon be followed by Stephanie de Monaco, who is looking to capitalize on the success of her hit. Storm (1986). With her Pool Position swimwear line, she offers ultra-high-cut, fluorescent and graphic designs that she is an ambassador for.

“Now is the time for aerobics and the conquering female body,” explains the trend expert. With his athletic body and sword, the Monegasque princess perfectly sums up these glamorous and glamorous eighties.” After the swimsuit explosion in the 1980s, it was the bodysuit that took over the following decade, taking its material vocabulary (Lycra) and cut (sexy) from one piece. A bodysuit worn with jeans celebrates the look of Beatrice Dahl in 1992… like Jeanne Damas in the summer of 2024.

Franz Beckenbauer’s three-layer running suit (1977)

What if Beckenbauer invented the sport of sports (Abbreviation of “sport” and “recreation”, editor’s note)? The German footballer, who died last year, was the first champion to wear a brand-new post-sport uniform: jogging. Through his sponsor, Adidas, “Kaiser” (yes, like Karl Lagerfeld) becomes an ambassador for the three-stripes jacket-and-red pants combination. He even gives his name to the model.

Since sports suit he largely left the outskirts of the field to spread throughout the city, from working-class neighborhoods to posh boulevards. Recovered by pop culture (cf The Tenenbaum family by Wes Anderson, released in 2001), this strong yet divisive creation keeps coming back and regularly appears on catwalks, such as at Isabel Marant or Celine. Some brands are even making collectibles, like Gucci or Balenciaga in 2022. It’s simple, it goes with anything as long as you have confidence.

Skater Tony Hawk’s Baggy Pants (1991)

Since the last Olympics in Tokyo, skateboarding has been an Olympic discipline in its own right. That’s good, because skaters in their baggy, baggy pants look super cool, like American pioneer Tony Hawk, a champion with exceptional experience. Coincidence or conspiracy, after a long eclipse due to the all-out dominance of the barak, the sack is back. It’s clear, all those girls opted for a low-waisted street version like Emily Ratajkowski or red carpet like Sienna Miller in XXL Schiaparelli raw denim at the last Cannes Film Festival.

“The bug originally comes from the American gangsta culture. in prisons, prisoners were forced to remove their belts and shoelaces,” explains Thomas Zilbermann. The result is trousers that fall below the buttocks, revealing the underwear.’ The look would soon appear in all hip-hop videos of the 1990s and 2000s, spreading to street subcultures. The 2024 look is a chic Miu Miu skater bag that can be worn with a top or a men’s suit vest. Visible boxer shorts are optional.

Andre Agassi’s Cycling Shorts (1989)

That being said, tennis is a sport for elegant people, where white is a must. However, in the late 1980s, the young champion Andre Agassi played the anti-establishment card. The rebellious American arrives on the courts with an incredible mullet cut (actually a toupee), and above all, a colorful outfit. In 1989, Agassi ushered in a new style era with the Challenge Court line, developed by his equipment supplier Nike; in addition to the fluorescent sneakers, he wore a pair of shorts, shorts worn over a fluorescent pink biker. It’s crazy!

In the 1990s, the rider was everywhere, even on Lady Diana (salmon version, 1995). The cult piece has been making a comeback for several seasons, most notably on Kim K, Hailey Bieber and Bella Hadid. And the men also hit Agassi’s locker room. Thomas Zilberman notes: “Today, floaty shorts worn over tight leggings are a must-have for runners. Out of practicality… or manly modesty.”

French football team jersey (1998)

France’s victory in the 1998 FIFA World Cup was a sporting and social event as well as a fashion one. In a unique form of syncretism between fashion and football, Yves Saint Laurent displays three hundred of his creations on the Stade de France pitch just before the final. Along the show, the most beautiful girls in the world, including Carla Bruni, a very young Letitia Casta, as well as Adriana Carembeau (then wife of Christian, player of the French national team) appear in a midnight blue jersey. National team.

“This 1998 World Cup marks the turning point when this sport stopped being football to become more unifying and transcend gender barriers,” emphasizes Thomas Zilbermann. “Top model Adriana Karembeu wearing a swimsuit is a form of stylistic transgression.” Since then, the fetishism associated with the herd swimsuit has never stopped. Deviating from its intended use, this piece is now seen around town in a crop top or XXL version. The latest trend? The jersey in the colors of Brazil seen on Hailey Bieber, Rosalia or Bella Hadid.