Risks and benefits. the limits of Vaseline in our beauty routine

On April 19, on RTL’s “It’ll Be Very Good,” Dr. Jimmy Mohamed revealed Jennifer Aniston’s beauty routine, and especially her miracle product, Vaseline. A cheap ingredient that the actress would use under her eyes to fill in wrinkles. And which backfires on social networks. Really after the trend slugging which consists of applying a thick layer after your nightly routine, some have promoted its benefits on the inner and/or outer corner of the eye to prevent tears and therefore makeup.

Its success seems to be due to its very affordable price. On the website of the Vaseline brand, the product is sold for $3.24 per 50 g or 3 euros. “Money is at the heart of the issue, especially among young people,” recalls Fanny Theil (consultant pharmacist and A-Derma medical manager). But it also highlights the Swiss Army Knife aspect of this inexpensive product. “You can use it to prevent eyeshadow from running and set your brows. It also has moisturizing power, as it helps retain water with its “occlusive” effect. It feels like everything in one.” A multi-functional spirit that fits perfectly with the trend low cosmetic, the latter consists of using fewer products and fewer ingredients. “It’s a bit of a win-win for people. But I find that when we’re in this process, we can also really focus on quality.”

Curing in a humid environment

Because when we look more closely, the composition of Vaseline has nothing to do with it. clean. “It should not be forgotten that the latter comes from petrochemical products and is easily produced from waste,” recalls the pharmacist. It is a mixture of paraffin, mineral oils… which has the main advantage of being completely inert. This means that there is no risk of phase shift or incompatibility with other products with this product.

The pharmacist also reminds that it is widely used in the medical environment to treat wounds and burns with bandages; “It is very occlusive and will allow healing in a moist environment, which will preserve the wound and prevent crusting. It’s also interesting because professionals know how to use it.” Because the expert notes that fans of this product often tend to be too generous when applying this balm. “Dosage-wise, it’s fatty and therefore not really enjoyable. In addition, there is a risk of maceration in the long run.”

Around the eyes.

So using it on a daily basis, like some TikTok trends, will prove to be a bad idea. For Fanny Tail, the question is not so much a question of frequency as “where and how we use it.” “There’s no problem using it every day, for example, to soothe atopic skin. But the area around the eye can be more of a problem. We know that it is a sensitive area where the skin is extremely thin. The pharmacist therefore advises not to use the star friends. “The more fat we add, the more we encourage milium grains to appear. Nothing serious, but it’s just in bad taste, and as dermatologists have less and less access, it’s harder to get rid of them.” Another danger for the eyes. Having a short or eye infection “because many people use this product on the tear sac without washing their hands.”

For the pharmacist, using a thick layer can also be comedogenic in the long run. “In this trend slugging, some people don’t bother to clean their skin the day after removing the excess. It is important to let the skin breathe from time to time. Pores are not meant to be clogged all the time. Therefore, we clean with a gel or foam cleanser before starting our routine.”

No more composition requirements

For an A-Derma representative, therefore, the use of Vaseline can be interesting for specific problems such as dry skin or scars. “But today we are still in an ecological approach, and we are also more and more concerned about people’s health. It’s a shame to advertise something made from petrochemicals (and therefore harmful to the environment).”

It seems essential for the specialist to look at compositions. “Especially if it’s something you put on your face every day. We still do not have a sufficient perspective on the consequences today. We have to be more demanding.” That’s one of the reasons that prompted A-Derma to create Vaseline Balm…without Vaseline, to “provide a cleaner answer to more ancestral items that weren’t quite as clean,” explains a brand spokesperson. Epitheliale AH Balm-patch also boasts an active formula, unlike petroleum jelly, which is inert. “The latter causes a mechanical effect that will preserve moisture, preventing water evaporation, but there is no interaction between Vaseline and the skin,” recalls the pharmacist.

This new organic formula also offers a wearable but semi-occlusive effect that allows the skin to breathe. And plays on the dermatological side with Rehalba oat extract, which has soothing, anti-inflammatory and restorative properties, and for the pain-relieving effects of Peruvian liana (useful for burns, cracks or after a cosmetic procedure). Offering a cosmetic finish (it contains hyaluronic acid and is non-comedogenic); “It can be used as an overnight mask, lip balm, brow tint and even on hair for added shine.”

There are other balms on the market that offer “cleaner” formulas, such as Vegan Hero All Purpose Balm from Freshly Cosmetics, which consists of 100% natural ingredients, or Beesline Rescue Balm with Honey and Carrot, with its 100% natural ingredients. . An alternative to help dry skin or follow social media trends while respecting your skin and the planet.