Neuroglow. when neuroscience revolutionizes the world of cosmetics

The color of the face that glows when you’re in love, the pimples that bloom when stressed… We’ve known for many moons the connections between the skin and the brain, which share the same embryonic origin. They are even constantly triggered by hormones or chemical molecules, including neurotransmitters. “When you apply cream, 70 million nerves are activated and 10,000 trillion connections are processed in 600 milliseconds,” say Chanel’s laboratories, which test the sensory signature of 500 formulas a day.

Our emotions under the microscope

It was in the 1990s, thanks to work done on sensitive skin, that we began to study the cutaneous nervous system. In 2024, neuroscience and AI have been there, and slowly we understand it better and better. “Addressing emotions and well-being has become commonplace in the cosmetic industry, but it’s one thing to say it, another thing to show it,” says Arno Ober, neurology and psychophysiology teacher-researcher at the University of Tours. the job Cosmetics, perfume and emotions. the contribution of neuroscience *. These 200 well-documented pages make it clear that studying and measuring emotions is not so simple.

It is even an extremely complex phenomenon that includes a cognitive, physiological, behavioral dimension… Precise tools and protocols are necessary to achieve reliable results. Joy, sadness, fear, surprise… All our emotions are revealed in laboratories with tools worthy of lie detectors: electroencephalograms, thermal cameras, functional magnetic resonance imaging… Sensory analysis laboratories are no longer satisfied with simplicity. questionnaires. We study heart rate, temperature and skin conductance, blood pressure, respiratory amplitude, posture, pupil diameter.

L’eye tracking analyzes eye movements as an indicator of attention. We measure voice intensity, intonation, and rhythm, take hormonal and salivary doses, record facial expressions, and even slight variations in epidermal color. So, before its launch, Chanel’s No. 1 range was tested using neurological measurements, and the luxury house is closely interested in DeepBlue technology, which allows emotions to be visualized in real time thanks to electrodes placed on the skull.

Sensory balance

“Since 1984, Shiseido has developed protocols to assess the effects of perfumes on the nervous, immune and endocrine systems,” recalls Natalie Broussard, Head of Scientific Communications. Today, it has already been proven that tissue can activate areas of the brain associated with pleasure, the reward system and attachment. We observed an analogy between the neural activity between the use of cosmetics and the different stages of romantic relationships. From love at first sight to marriage, we love our cult products as much as our better half.

Seven years of research and more than 3,000 hours of sleep analysis were needed for perfume company Givaudan to develop the new fragrance Rejuvenic Gold Multistrate Regenerating Night Balm by Carita. Tested with Loughborough University, this patented track ensures more peaceful nights and the melt-in texture also has soothing properties. The same approach in Til, whose leading active ingredient, lime, works on the skin as well as the mind. In addition to the effect on the brightness of the product, the perfume, created by perfumer Francis Kurkjian, was the subject of a protocol developed by Arno Ober’s neurological laboratory. As a reward, an immediate and lasting state of relaxation and comfort.

Today, the beauty world has moved to the next stage, that of bioactive neurocosmetic ingredients that can improve the appearance of skin while providing emotional benefits and positive perceptions of our appearance. A phenomenon that is not to everyone’s taste. “Some manufacturers claim or imply that applying their products to the skin can have a direct effect on the nervous system and brain, and therefore the psyche and ‘mood’. If this were the case, the product should be withdrawn from the market immediately to avoid addiction,” warns the Psychodermatology Group of the French Society of Dermatologists. Okay, some brands definitely exaggerate the psychological benefits of their creams, but we’ve yet to see anyone get addicted to cosmetics or eau de toilette. Or, you should first ban cigarettes, wine, chocolate and smartphones.

Soul skin effect

“The skin has neurons, eyes, nostrils and maybe even ears,” affirms José Ginestar, Sisley Research Director, who after ten years of research is launching Neuraé, the first skincare brand entirely based on the prism of neuroscience and emotion. on Neuro-ingredients, neuro-flavors and neuro-textures on the wellbeing menu. “We act on the cells, the skin and the mind at the same time,” explains the project leader. How “through the neurotransmitters that make up the skin-brain language? We targeted positive aspects such as endorphins, which induce euphoria and reduce inflammation, and Gaba, a sedative that reduces anxiety and promotes healing. We were also interested in the downsides, such as cortisol, a stress hormone that weakens and sensitizes the skin barrier, and CGRP, which causes inflammation and increases pain perception. Then we discovered patented phytoactive ingredients that can encourage positive messages and suppress bad ones.”

Four perfumes were created according to the principles of olfactotherapy, and the tissues were created with the help of neuroscience. Finally, three regimens with the patented Ordinary Serum that reharmonizes, the Joy Emulsion that euphorizes and brightens, the Serenity Balm that soothes and smooths, and the Energy Cream that brings spring to the brain and skin. An SOS package for everyone. “The results can be seen and felt,” explains José Ginestar. And they far exceeded our expectations. Not only were the hypotheses confirmed, but we also confirmed that the communication between the skin and the brain, which weakens with age and stress, is improved. And, of course, everything is as natural and stable as possible, as it should be today. Even the planet needs well-being.

* Coordinated by Patrice Bellon, Ed. Cosmetic Valley, 2021