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The porcelain color secrets from the Maison Margiela show are finally revealed by Pat McGrath

The “porcelain doll” beauty look imagined by Pat McGrath for John Galliano’s Maison Martin Margiela show.
Pat McGrath

This was a parade not to be missed this season. The Maison Margiela show also gave us the most mesmerizing beauty of recent years. To the point of raging the Internet and social networks.

Ever since John Galliano mesmerized Couture Week with his show for Maison Margiela, one question has been on the minds of makeup lovers the world over. how did Pat McGrath, the make-up artist who worked behind the scenes of the show, manage to transform the mannequins; porcelain dolls? Theories multiply on social networks. Vaseline. Latex? Herbal wax? Everyone wants to reproduce this effect.”glass skin” and videos on TikTok are multiplying.

Faced with so much enthusiasm and creativity, the makeup artist eventually agreed to share her secrets. And met his community this Friday, February 2 at 21:00 (France time) on his brand’s Instagram account. The emotion in the comments is palpable, the tension almost unbearable. “You’ve driven the internet crazy with this technique.” “Honestly, it’s like Christmas, Easter, Thanksgiving, Eid, and all the holidays together. My excitement is really real!” “Thank you for the gift. The world needs something fun and cute like this to lift their spirits. You are so special Lady Patty.” To the Internet user who wrote on the account of the fashion house, “I don’t understand makeup. Is this a thin mask or something else,” answers another. “Stay tuned for a live Instagram masterclass recreating the Maison Margiela porcelain look on February 2nd. A gift given to us mortals by the elders.’ This shows the aura enjoyed by the celebrity makeup artist who has already served behind the scenes at many shows. And to whom do we especially owe the brilliant faces of the Valentino haute couture spring-summer 2020 show? Another artistic look that took the front row just like the rest of the beauty industry.

The ultimate proof of the Maison Margiela look’s impact and Pat McGrath’s popularity, the live event brought together over 15,000 people. “All the makeup artists in the world are connected,” laughs the contestant on live messages.

“A hyper-glossy sheen, mimicking the smooth, reflective quality of glass”

Pat McGrath had already revealed Get the Look, or a little guide to recreating a fashion show look, at the end of the show… but kept it kind of vague. A recent press release noted that “the skin is coated in a hyper-glossy sheen, mimicking the smooth and reflective quality of glass and complementing the models’ incredible transformation.” And to reproduce it, we’ll need to prep the skin with her Divine Skin Rose OO1 The Essence Lotion (retails for €99 at Sephora).

And while a lotion foundation is essential to the expert, as she stresses at the start of her live show, the secret to this porcelain complexion lies in a few things. First, apply water-based glue with a cotton swab in strategic spots: corner of the lips, bridge of the nose, inner corner of the eye. The makeup artist then created this famous glow, which comes from a mixture of several masks (including the Pineapple Peel from Que Bella or the Cucumber Repairing Freeman) mixed with plain water. He also included Clear Gloss from The Illustrator, a product created by makeup artist Ve Neill to create Jude Law’s “plastic effect” face in the film. HAVE by Steven Spielberg.

To lightly apply this gloss, the team worked not with a brush, but with a tool specific to the painting world: an airbrush that dries as much as possible between each coat with a hair dryer. Check him out in some behind-the-scenes videos. from the show and the master class. Pat McGrath also explains that it takes at least 7 to 8 coats to achieve this glass and porcelain effect. The latter require blow-drying between each step to see little by little “these dolls come to life,” as the makeup artist describes it. A revolutionary process, on which he has actually been working for three years, and which, he claims, does not give a sticky ending. On the day of the show, the models were called to the show at 7am… 7pm; Therefore, 12 hours of preparation were needed to develop this beautiful beauty look for the big day. A real challenge for Pat McGrath. “The timing, but also this millimeter precision, especially since there are a lot of steps,” before emphasizing that it’s all the result of real teamwork.

A video montage on Instagram also shows models removing this glow, like a peel-off mask or second skin. Like the behind-the-scenes change. From poetry to removing makeup.

Details other than skin help create this doll look. All this is done before applying the glaze. Thus, the eyebrows are faded to be replaced by delicate arcs, as if drawn with a pencil. On the cheeks, a cream blush (Le Divine Blush: Legendary Glow Coulour Balm) is applied to the center of the cheeks. On the lips, shades of blood red and black are topped with a sheer gloss (Lust: Glow Nude Négligée) to create a stunning pout. On some lips, green flirts with pink. Always more confusing.

One of the silhouettes of the Maison Margiela show.
Pat McGrath

What has the make-up artist behind the scenes prepared for us after this kind of flattery? The answer to the next Fashion Week.

Source: Le Figaro

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