“It is a shield, but also a weapon.” the crazy history of lipstick since ancient times

The lifting of health restrictions in the spring of 2022 marked the end of mask wearing… and a nearly 30% increase in lipstick sales. A figure that fascinates and questions. What if red told about the economic health of our societies? This is called the “lipstick index”. Although controversial, this analysis (which wants the sales curve to follow crises) comes from Leonard Lauder, Estee Lauder’s son. He noticed increasing numbers in 2001. after the shock of 9/11. Crisis or not, about 800 million units are sold worldwide today.

A small luxury, a symbol sexuality Finally, sometimes seen as a feminist argument or, conversely, as a symbol of patriarchy, lipstick is not trivial or frivolous. It is full of paradoxes and loaded with meaning. “Lipstick is a sociological and political sign,” says writer, lawyer, and screenwriter Rachel Kahn, who wrote a fascinating piece about this little color with Christoph Fort. The crazy story of lipstick. For her, lipstick helped women fight the “battle of beauty.” He says. “Lipstick is a shield, but also a weapon. It allowed women to reclaim their body, image and desire for beauty. Sarah Bernhardt even said that lipstick is her “war paint.” Coco Chanel? “If you’re sad, add more lipstick and attack.”

Lipstick allowed women to reclaim their body, image and desire for beauty

Rachel Kahn, writer, lawyer and screenwriter

Appearing around three thousand years ago in the Sumerian civilization (archaeologists found it in a tomb in Ur, now Iraq), red has always been a tool of seduction, power and autonomy. And women have conquered it, from ancient Egypt to modern Iran, from royal palaces to 20th-century battlefields.^e century, through Hollywood or social networks. A little mythology of Red in the form of an alphabet book.

A for autocrats

Rachel Kahn says: “Hitler hated lipstick. Eva Brown did not wear it at her request. Consequently, women in the American military adopted red as a symbol of freedom produced by Elizabeth Arden. Many totalitarian regimes, such as Afghanistan’s Taliban or Iran’s mullahs, still suppress makeup very harshly. “In the 1990s, women resisting Ayatollah Khomeini’s regime even suffered a terrible punishment: removal of lipstick with a razor,” the author notes. Over the centuries, religious people of all stripes have condemned what they perceive as the “sin of pride,” even a “satanic mask,” going so far as to accuse women of witchcraft. in the 18th century^e In the 19th century, the British Parliament even debated a law banning lipstick. Men’s control of women’s bodies is at stake, always.

For the B Stick

It’s not really clear when lipstick as we know it was invented. But around 900, in Muslim-ruled Spain, the Andalusian Abu Al-Qasim al-Zahrau, one of the most distinguished surgeons of the Middle Ages, created a wax base for the red pigment. He then perfumed it and pressed it into a mold. In the past, tinctures and other natural ointments were stored in bottles or walnut shells and applied with a brush or stick. The mechanism tube, invented in 1880 by the perfumer Guerlain, contributed to the fantastic growth of this little fetish. The telescoping piston can now be moved anywhere, a feature that would inspire Guerlain’s name; “Don’t forget me.” And the term “lipstick” next? Historian Catherine Lanoe dates the origin of this name to the middle of the 17th century.^e century.

C like Cherry

Red is not always applied in contour mode. in the 17th century^e century, during the Qing Dynasty in China, only the upper lip was painted over the entire surface, and the cherry shape was reproduced on the lower lip. in the 18th century^e century, geisha also changed their lips to a heart or cherry shape with the traditional red komachi beni Or me Only experienced geishas reinterpret their lip contours to give them a smaller shape. Thus popularizing this art, which had long been reserved for Japanese women of high society, as in Europe.

D for teeth

We tend to forget it, but oral hygiene was not a strong point of our ancestors. In the late 1720s, treatments were developed that contributed to the growth of lip makeup. A smile appears in the painting. Elisabeth Viguet Le Brun caused a scandal in 1787 with her self-portrait, with pink lips and a toothy smile.

For eco-responsibility

Today, all brands are working to revise their formulas. More natural, less aggressive. Get rid of any ingredients that have a negative impact on the environment (such as petrochemicals) or products that are tested on animals. The market is adapting and organic sales, which were in their infancy in the early 2000s, are exploding. Packaging is also evolving and we are seeing the rise of recyclable tubes.

H for men

“Lipstick for women, lipstick for men,” as Daniel Balavuan sang Polychrome lipstick, During Louis XIV’s Grand Siècle in 1980, makeup wasn’t just for women. Today, gender neutral makeup is booming and has billions of views on TikTok.

I like Influencers

Without them, this fashion probably wouldn’t have stood the test of time. If Ancient Egypt had Cleopatra, then I^eh In the 15th century, the Roman empress Poppaia is a lover of red. Nero’s wife even always had make-up slaves with her. (cosmetics), just for a little touch. in the 16th century^e century, it was the Italian Catherine de’ Medici who arrived at the court of the King of France with her personal perfumer Renato Bianco. Although forbidden by the church, lipstick became popular among the nobility. Diana de Poitiers, the favorite of Henry II, known for her incredible beauty, defined three rules of beauty: black eyelashes and eyebrows and bright red lips. Like today! Elizabeth I^D:He also had a great impact on his time. Then the rule is the rule of hyperwhite skin and red lips. There Virgin Queen He especially used carmine, which is made from cochineal, finely ground insects. Closer to us, Elizabeth II never went out without her bag and redwood. It even appears that he used it to send coded messages to his security service;

K for Space

The word “cosmetic” comes from Greek space, which means “order”. Because for the ancient Greeks, everything that is ordered is beautiful. But while previous civilizations (like the Egyptians or Minoans) used red, W^e In the century, make-up was banned. The philosopher Plato even considers cosmetics “a perverse, deceitful, vulgar and servile activity that deceives with its appearance, so that those who are inclined to adorn themselves with artificial beauty ignore real beauty” (In. Gorgias). Red, incompatible with so-called “natural” beauty, is forbidden, reserved only for prostitutes.

N like naked

What if modern nudity was invented in the Middle Ages? At that time, religious prohibitions were significant. To get around them, women find a solution: a delicate pink cream made from sheep fat and crushed red roots.

O for obscenity

in the 19th century^e century, it was forbidden to wear makeup in public. It is Sarah Bernhardt, the first of the superstars, who will start the movement. Prepared for the stage, she does not hesitate to look like this the rest of the time and even flaunt her lips on the street. Thus, the actress invents a gesture of emancipation, which will be reproduced many times. Rachel Kahn comments: “Red is a primary color, the color of passion, the color of blood as well. Lips are about sexuality, they evoke orality… it’s a very strong erotic and sexual symbol.” This hasn’t escaped makeup brands like the very trendy ISAMAYA, which actually offers a tube of lipstick in male form. To dare.

Red is a primary color, the color of passion, the color of blood as well. Lips refer to sexuality, they evoke orality… it is a very strong erotic and sexual symbol.

Rachel Kahn, writer, lawyer and screenwriter

R for revolution

We were freed from our trappings during the French Revolution. Red is no longer trendy because of the moral turpitude of the aristocracy. During the Belle Époque, it was still associated with prostitutes; “The lips were painted like a wound,” wrote Maupassant. During the Cultural Revolution, which was the 1960s, it was a time of natural beauty and a time of dematerialization. Red is associated by feminists with the patriarchal values ​​of the Western world. Haro on traditional beauty models, Haro on the object woman. Hippie youth turn their backs on it. But he’ll be back in the door with a disco wave.

S for Suffragettes

In 1912, on Fifth Avenue in New York, Elizabeth Arden joined a demonstration of women demanding the right to vote. The high priest of cosmetics is handing out reds from his brand to a march of twenty thousand protesters. A great street marketing operation ahead of its time.

T for Toxic

For a long time, it was not known that preparations intended for applying to the face are highly toxic. In ancient times lip coloring was based on lead among the Sumerians, and on vermilion among the Greeks… This product made of bismuth was not sold until the end of the 18th century.^e century. Historians and researchers agree that it certainly killed Elizabeth I^D:, who was convinced of the life-saving virtues of the product with which he spread his lips. Its red crimson (red) was made with mercury and the make-up with lead. When she died, she was said to be wearing almost an inch of lipstick.

The Crazy Story of Lipstick By Rachel Kahn and Christoph Fort, Ed. Herscher, 29 euros. In bookstores from October 25.