How did Loro Piana cashmere become the fashion obsession of big bosses?

“IYKYN”. this is not a secret code. It is an abbreviation of the English phrase “Iif you know you know”, translated into French as “if you know, you know”. In other words, the symbolic code of Loro Piana, the Italian brand of the LVMH group, which specializes in the production of luxury fabrics and clothing from cashmere or wool. His clients, the very rich, are among the ultra-rich. We also see a significant number of them concentrated in areas of California that are home to tech giants like Apple, Facebook and Google.

A very select club

When you look at the Loro Piana shopping website, the clothes play a good main card. simple, effective cuts and sober colors in shades of beige, blue and black. Therein lies the whole matter of restrained luxury, or “quiet luxuryAs the trend says, clothes with exclusive materials, aimed only at connoisseurs. To those informed. To those who know.

Thai billionaire Vichai Srivadhanaprabha, who died in 2018, was the first customer. Venture capitalist and Social Capital CEO Chamath Palihapitiya is also said to be a fan of the brand, as evidenced by his tweet on August 22. In a picture posted on his X account (formerly Twitter), we see clothes hanging from protective covers, but above all in boxes of shoes and accessories. All neatly stored in Loro Piana shopping bags.

In the title, the boss says: “I’m in the arena and I’m trying some things. Some will work, some won’t. We cannot help but think that some will understand, others will not. Because just like Hermès or Louis Vuitton, Loro Piana bags have a unique color that is recognizable among thousands, which is enough in itself. An orange shade called Kummel, the signature of the house that only fans can recognize. “The emerging elite of China and Silicon Valley are moving more and more towards informal elegance and appreciate our clothes that are simple in their excellence,” explained Fabio d’Angelantonio, the brand’s former CEO. Figaro in 2019. And continue.

Loro Piana, a strategy for “interior” luxury

At Loro Piana, we do not associate with the logo bling:, but rather in coded language. A color, a piece of clothing or an anagram is enough to entice the world’s wealthiest people to seek out a discreet wardrobe. No mass marketing, no over-hyped muses to introduce the collections. Subtlety is the key. A form of sophistication aimed at those who have the means to understand it… Or who have no time for overly intellectual fashion. Bella Hadid opens the show, huge banners on the front of the Paris Opera… No question for the Italian house. “The ambassador of the brand is the raw material. Unlike Louis Vuitton or Dior, where the ambassador is the artist, the muse. The growth of the luxury market is driven by people who need to be pampered,” explains HEC Professor Jean-Noël Kapferer.

In this luxury, which the professor defines as “interior”, the muses are replaced by “icons”, in other words, by exceptional materials. For Loro Piana, it’s called the finest wool on the planet The Gift Of Kings:, to understand the “Gift of Kings”. “A symbol of excellence and nobility, the name is now attributed to one of the finest materials in the world, produced thanks to Loro Piana’s unique know-how and passion,” the LVMH group’s website states. The other “icon” of the brand is called CashDenim:. A blend of cashmere and denim, woven by Japanese artisans on ancient looms, with the power to dress subtly. At Loro Piana, we don’t sell a face, celebrity or glitz. We sell the exclusive and the unique.

So much so that the house only offers high quality pieces that we keep for a lifetime. 100% Italian production first, but not only. In addition to cashmere, the brand never stops searching for perfect and rare materials, such as vicuña wool (a type of alpaca, Editor’s note) extremely rare, hard to find, light as a feather and touching a special feeling. In this regard, we quickly realize that to buy a piece, you have to pay a price for it. Count 4,200 euros for the most expensive scarf, 17,200 euros for the Walton dark blue coat.

Discreet communication behavior

In the California sun, other ultra-wealthy people and tech geeks swear by sage luxury. This is the case of Mark Zuckerberg, head of the multinational Meta (formerly Facebook). If there’s no proof that she’s shopping at Loro Piana, we imagine she’s probably already visited the home store in Silicon Valley. Especially when we know that her famous gray T-shirt is actually a piece made by the Italian house Brunello Cucinelli, another example of “quiet luxury” – a cotton T-shirt slim-neck sweater, super simple. for 275 euros. “Mark Zuckerberg is the symbol of a billionaire, he already has everything. He does not need Dior and Louis Vuitton. It is dressed in luxury interiors,” explains Jean-Noël Kapferer. For luxury interior brands, you need to know how to be desirable to grow your business. The idea is to find subtle communication behaviors we call “whispers.” A strategy that allows you to build an end customer… and a loyal one.

Supporting evidence with series succession (HBO), which put Loro Piana in the spotlight. In last season’s first episode, we follow Bridget, Greg Hirsch’s new companion, at a birthday party for Royer, the latter’s extremely wealthy family. Where purity matters, the young woman’s tartan Burberry bag doesn’t pass muster, going so far as to describe it as ‘monstrous’. A scene that speaks volumes about the social competition that runs strong in the world of luxury. “Loro Piana is aimed at people who don’t need to show that they have achieved success,” explains Jean-Noël Kapferer. And continue. “Luxury lives on social competition. People who love inner luxury look down on those who love outer luxury, and vice versa. “.

A source of success and inspiration

Let’s live happily, live hidden. This is the belief practiced by these brands, whose modestly designed clothes create little or no fuss. Therein lies the strategy of exclusivity. Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinello… All offer, for example, very few selling points. We’re thinking here of The Row, twins Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen’s minimalist and chic label, which has just three stores: New York, London and Los Angeles. In a society where “more” and “fast” are emphasized, especially in fashion, Loro Piana and other discreet luxury brands play the “slow” card. Suffice it to count Amazon founder Jeff Bezos among its clients. Also known as the richest man in the world.

Brands at Loro Piana also rely on complete discretion. A black and white facade, logo and minimalist windows that display several pieces carefully arranged like in a museum. “Everything goes hand in hand,” explains Jean-Noël Kapferer. Everyone wants to be the epitome of elegance.” It’s enough to inspire new understated luxury brands to do the same. Like Icicle, the Chinese house from Shanghai that focuses on clean lines and neutral tones at the heart of both the clothing and its George V flagship. Targeting eco-conscious customers judging by its 100% natural materials, plant-based dyes and recyclable packaging. Because when you already have everything, it’s natural to try to get back to basics.