More effective, more natural. What if we switched to enzymes for our skin?

In fermentation, everyone has only this word in their mouth. Even you who regularly eat yogurt, cheese, bread, sauerkraut, vinegar, pickles, drink wine and beer…only fermented foods. Healthy girls are unbeatable on this topic and wrap their gut microbiota with lots of Japanese miso, kimchi (Korean fermented cabbage), kombucha made from fermented tea, or even kefir. “agitées du bocal” even organized a plant fermentation festival in October 2022 in Rennes. In fact, there is nothing new on the shelves. Fermented foods have been around for centuries because they were the only way to preserve them before the invention of sterilization, pasteurization and refrigeration. The principle is simple. In the absence of oxygen, microorganisms, enzymes and bacteria break down and transform food without denaturing it, improving its taste, increasing nutritional and digestive properties, while limiting CO emissions.^2:.

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An increasingly used technique

Enough to germinate ideas in cosmetic laboratories, always in search of more effective active ingredients and more ecological processes. “It all started ten years ago with Korean beauty,” remembers Lionel Laffont, founder of the Cosmetology LLC consulting company. Increasing knowledge of nature, biotechnologies, and microbiota has accelerated the movement. So we saw the emergence of brands made entirely of fermented ingredients like Whamisa or Florena, but today the biggest houses are talking about it. Including 18,000 square meters of Hélios, the state-of-the-art research center for LVMH research. “We are using this technique more and more,” says Virginie Couturaud, Dior’s director of scientific communication. And for many reasons. First, it produces acids, which are natural preservatives, thus reducing the chemical components. It then also provides texturizers or emulsifiers, such as xanthan gum, which is produced by the fermentation of sugar by certain bacteria. What’s the point? “Avoid silicones.”

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Newer and faster developing is the creation of new assets or the optimization of existing natural assets. “Thanks to biofermentation, we get new molecules, more powerful, in larger quantities and in smaller sizes, therefore more absorbable for the skin,” continues the expert. The process used to take a month, as opposed to two days for the chemically active ingredient, but that was in the past. “Serum Capture Totale’s star active ingredient, longoza, bubbled for just ten days with ten phytoenzymes before revealing new properties that target epidermal stem cell anchoring proteins.” Finally, this multi-faceted serum improves skin firmness and addresses key signs of aging. Biofermentation is also used to make Granville rose juice in Dior’s Prestige range.

“Fermented cosmetic active ingredients delight the flora of our skin”

At MyBlend, a combination of anti-aging skin care, light and nutritional supplements, we rely heavily on fermented turmeric to fight “inflammatory aging.” “Under the influence of lactobacilli, turmeric becomes more antioxidant and anti-inflammatory,” emphasizes Marie-Hélène Leier, scientific spokesperson of the laboratories. Fermentation is also an ecological process that does not use solvents and has low energy costs. And just as fermented foods are good for our gut, fermented cosmetic active ingredients rich in pre- and probiotics delight our skin flora.”

Among glamorous enzymes, Chanel is not to be outdone. In Sublimage l’Extrait de Nuit de Chanel, a complex of fermented Vanilla planifolia and neroli elixirs enhances the functions of detoxification, regeneration and regeneration. We also find camellia yeast at the core of its N°1 care line for thirty-year-olds. Grown in a bioreactor through a fermentation process, it creates a healthy skin barrier. Whether in Lancôme’s best-selling serum, Advanced Génifique, or Orveda’s luxury greentech products… Today, the future of our cells absolutely depends on green science. “Even star beauty active ingredients like vitamin C or hyaluronic acid are made by fermenting wheat, milk or soy,” adds Lionel Laffont. Constantly innovating active ingredient suppliers now offer 100% natural retinol, more active and mild fermented oils, or even fermented raspberry extracts in 38 times more concentrated lactic acid.

In Sanoflore’s Sérum des Reines, which fights the ten signs of aging, pure vitamin C is obtained through biotechnology from the fermentation of glucose extracted from corn. The hyaluronic acid in La Roche-Posay’s Hyalu B5 Serum is derived from wheat. Ditto the Hydragenist range from Lierac, which has undergone a major green facelift. This hyaluronic acid is provided by fermented plankton, which saturates the skin with water, promotes its circulation and slows its evaporation.

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