Low profile, high price. how do the super rich really dress?

The series will not avoid anyone. For more than a week, 50-year-old actress Gwyneth Paltrow went to court in Park City, Utah. He was involved in the trial against Terry Sanderson over a 2016 collision between two skiers on a slope at a high-end resort. But above all, the fashion attributes of the star to present himself to justice have fascinated the American media, which is busy with a sharp declassification.

Behind the classic cuts and neutral color palette is a message. Although the actress and wellness entrepreneur’s speech is limited to legal matters, she speaks through her clothes. The clothes, however, are as discreet as they are luxurious, branded by high-priced brands such as The Row, Gabriella Hearst or Prada. A straight khaki coat for €4,700 on March 21, a gray suit on March 23, a necklace accessory for €23,000, a long-sleeved navy blue Prada polo shirt on March 24… Even with a very simple design, his blue notebook costs €297. . The American media was quick to comment on this attitude.quiet luxury(or “quiet luxury”).

Wealth and social functioning

This wardrobe, both sharp and “low persona,” though instrumentalized in the specific case of Gwyneth Paltrow for her own defense, thus brought to light a sociological phenomenon. There is no room for showmanship at the top of the social ladder. Witness the minimalist uniforms adopted by all Silicon Valley CEOs, from Mark Zuckerberg’s €275 Brunello Cucinelli T-shirt or Steve Jobs’ custom-made Issey Miyake turtle neck necklace of around €400. The richer the rich, the less their wealth shines. However, this sartorial contradiction, it turns out, is deeply rooted in behavior.

It even had roots in ancient Greece, as philosopher George Bata analyzed in his 1933 article: The concept of costs “Social rank (editor’s note at the time) is associated with having wealth, but this is still provided that the wealth is partly sacrificed for unproductive social expenditures such as parties, shows and games. This system died out with the advent of Christianity and private property, giving the “haves” only leisure to enjoy their wealth. Since then, the social function of the richest has disappeared and given way to “his shame and at the same time petty hypocrisy”, continues the philosopher who died in 1962. its products discreetly. But not all rich people make this deletion choice, and therein lies the trick.

New riches and old riches

Another case study illustrates this phenomenon. succession, Season 4, Episode 1: This American soap opera (HBO) follows the travails of the Roys, a New York family whose fortunes have been well established for generations. Each member is a perfect representation of what the press and social media are now calling quiet luxury, the same gorgeous and restrained panorama that Gwyneth Paltrow was engaged in. In the first episode of the previous season, broadcast on March 27, a newcomer comes to break the beautiful harmony of luxury. Bridget, the new companion of distant cousin Greg Hirsch, is introduced at a birthday party. The unfortunate woman appears carrying a Burberry bag lined with the English brand’s signature tartan. The members of the clan facing him all wear clothes of remarkable austerity.

The error is fatal to its integration. The bag could be a luxury accessory, retailing for €2,890, described as “ridiculously large”, “monstrous” and even “curly” by a well-integrated member of this clan who swears by nothing but sobriety. Armani, Loro Piana or Max Mara. A misstep is unforgivable, Brigde has been reduced to disgraceful status. This play shows the contrast between the long-established wealth and the recent social ascension through money, incomprehensible to this caste. And for good reason, Brigitte’s choice of look reflects “a consumption of luxury that’s not at all self-conscious,” as Dina Sultan, trend stylist at intelligence firm Peclers, points out.

“Any less ‘connoisseur’ who uses luxury more as a foil would not necessarily know how to tell the difference between Loro Piana branded pieces.”

Dina Sultan, trend specialist at Peclers research firm

This striking style is interpreted as “the fruit of an almost compulsive purchase that is very ‘driven’ by seasonal trends,” continues the expert. In contrast, the Roy family’s dress code, just as severe but outwardly more measured, “requires knowledge that comes from tradition, know-how, heritage.” There is snobbery. “One of the less “connoisseurs” who uses luxury as a guardian, will not necessarily be able to distinguish pieces with the Loro Piana brand,” emphasizes Dina Sultan. An opposition that comes out of fiction, fueled by the marketing strategy of many high-end brands in recent years.

Logomania, dead end

Two hundred euros is enough for some famous brands to get a piece emblazoned with a logo. To expand their target, luxury brands have bet on affordable “loss leaders” that encourage their distribution. Added to this is the appearance of the monogram, which each label has perfected its own version of. Or it’s in a bag. The name, previously reserved for a few exclusive bags like Hermès’ Birkin, is now used by brands every season to highlight a new model. And this with many communication operations on social networks. “There is an interest in society quiet luxury in response to extreme media coverage of luxury through influencers,” says Dina Sultan of Peclers.

Among the changes that have taken place in the luxury market in recent years, a change in scale should also be noted: brands have become global. “In order to satisfy the new customer, especially the Asian one, it was necessary to produce more, which somewhat discredited the exclusive discourse,” the expert admits. On the contrary, the pillars quiet luxury, which include Brunello Cucinelli, Maison Ullens, Loro Piana and The Row, rely on a strategy of exclusivity with few selling points. Therefore, players in the sector who want to maintain their exclusive aura have two strings to their bow. On the one hand, the prices of goods, with certain signs of strong growth. “Which means the need to flatten the gap, to recreate a new form of exclusivity,” comments Dina Sultan. And on the other hand, the aesthetic, which tends towards essentialism in catwalks. And expanding into the consumer fashion market due to the gloomy economic climate.

Silent mode

Clearly, the era of bling is on the wane. A regression that can be seen outside of the most privileged circles. Inflation in France is the highest since the 1980s. the French ready-to-wear sector is devastated. politics in crisis. Economic difficulties and uncertainties are driving consumers to make informed and sustainable purchases. For those who can access it, buying luxury accessories comes as an investment. The evolution of everyday uniforms also reflects this desire to turn our backs on fantasy to refocus on the essentials.

Arket, the latest brand of the H&M group, has a philosophy of simplicity and durability. Stylists and fashionistas go in search of the perfect white t-shirt. Even Zara, whose model is based on updating trends, created the Origins line, which goes back to the “foundation of the modern wardrobe”. “It’s about making a little more sensible, a little less emotional choice,” sums up trendsetter Dina Sultan. There is no doubt that fashion succeeds in establishing a connection between emotions and intelligence.

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