After being at the center of unprecedented controversy in December 2022, the Demna-led brand returns with an autumn-winter 2023-2024 collection that takes the form of a declaration of love for clothes, this March 5 at the Fashion Paris weekend.
No decor, no distinguished guest in the front row, not even a lesser-known podium. On Sunday, March 5, Balenciaga’s fall-winter 2023-2024 show was put under the sign of sobriety. And for good reason, this is the first event for the brand led by designer Demna since the controversy that rocked it last December. The Kering Group label has faced a wave of outrage and boycotts since ad campaigns were released that first cemented the American far-right before going viral. Since then, the artistic director, who had accustomed his public to monumental installations, like his recent parades under a blizzard or mud, and to the appearance of his muses like Kim Kardashian, clearly showed his intention to refocus on the essential: clothes
Profession of faith
The invitation, an authentic example of the jacket, sent the day before the show, announced an essentialist approach. It is confirmed on the spot with a note of intention. During Paris Fashion Week in September, a few weeks before the scandal, Demna announced that she would no longer give explanations about her work. Today the situation has changed. The designer takes us into the intimacy of his memory to recall the first pair of trousers the tailor made for him; a childhood memory that became “a refuge for her love of fashion” after the media storm.
And if Demna reminds the child that he was (the Balenciaga brand was singled out for campaigns with the participation of children), then it is better to regret the “kind of fun” fashion. First a founding myth, then a fundamental reflection, the post ends with a groundbreaking speech. “Fashion should no longer be seen as entertainment, but as the art of making clothes.” Picture proof.
Back to basics
The offer on the podium speaks for itself. Balenciaga’s Fall-Winter 2023-2024 collection is a succession of structured cut-out garments with the concept of transforming the body as a watermark. Emphasis is placed on drapes and monumental shoulders with a distinct roundness. The registers, as always with Demna, collide. the striking femininity of large metallic and glittering evening dresses is replaced by the unsettling strangeness of technical shoes and intriguingly voluminous silhouettes. There’s no need to look for the next collaboration or the next viral accessory, leather trash bag, or other consumer product option. Demna takes fashion on a different note.
Source: Le Figaro
