In the Marais, Casa Eminente, an ephemeral address with the air of a Havana paladares, takes pride of place in Caribbean gastronomy revisited by chefs. The first inspired guest, Julien Sebbag.
No passer-by would suspect that behind the heavy gate of a cul-de-sac in Paris Marais is hidden… a Cuban residence. You must be reserved to be allowed through the door of Casa Eminente. Then the miracle happens. paladares, these restaurants in Havana are located in private homes and run by the owners. The courtyard, or rather the courtyard, overgrown with thick vegetation and where a fountain whispers, is the perfect introduction. Curiosity awakens. You need to move to the canopy. Rattan furniture, trunks, vintage accessories and always plants, plants, plants… a change of scenery is guaranteed. It is at its height as you climb the stairs to visit the four suites, each evoking an aspect of Cuban culture.
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Animal world and flora, villages, literature, art. these rooms are like unexpected little museums with items that come directly from Cuba or were found by Selens, as everywhere in the Casa, decorations in which the works of Cuban talents are mixed and selected by Laura Salas. Redondo, art curator. Lying on uncomfortable beds. You must come down to enjoy the best of this place. Because this secret address is a bar-restaurant that boasts exclusive bottles of Eminente rum, particularly through original cocktails imagined by guest bartenders. We taste their creations, but also the classics in a “just like there” bar where wood, glass and marble combine.
Julien Sebbag will be serving his plates full of joy and sunshine at Casa Eminente until the end of March. David Coulon
The sun in plates
If a break in this room of Casa Eminente is mandatory, then you should definitely sit down to eat. What about? bartenders, The chiefs and chiefs in charge of the house are in residence for several weeks. It is Julien Sebbag who opens the ball with plates full of joy and sunshine until the end of March. “When Eminente contacted me to take part in this adventure, I was immediately on board,” he enthuses. Last year I spent an evening at the Hôtel Eminente, also a transient place; an extraordinary moment in an incredible atmosphere. So I wanted to contribute to such an experience. I knew that this new edition would still have this concept of sharing, these large tables that allow two to arrive and leave with nineteen new friends.
However, the project was a challenge for the chef, who admits he was unfamiliar with Cuban gastronomy. “But it was exciting. I immersed myself in books, articles to find out what we eat in Cuba, what products are available, seasonality. I didn’t want a first degree though. I mixed these findings with my own cooking.” Yogurt, coriander, and hibiscus powder thus add a very personal touch to the sea wheat taco.
Shrimps are a snack, garnished with coffee crumble, pepper flakes, cashew sauce. “There’s a roundness to this dish, a nice balance. My work at Casa Eminente really focused on this harmony of flavors, but also on provenance. I didn’t want to use remotely too many ingredients.”
This desire to inject intimacy is found pan con carne: inspired by long-simmered Cuban stew served in bread. “I chose to revisit it with sweet potatoes and present it with brioche. It is an absolute delicacy, accompanied by celery, celery, Granny Smith apple salad, which breaks up the greasy and dense side of the brioche. It is very good.”
La Casa Eminente, a guaranteed change of scenery in the heart of the Marais. David Coulon
Caribbean color Baba
Of course, the meal ends with desserts such as: casquitos de la casa:, an alliance of guava, passion fruit, Fromage blanc mousse and peanut nougatine, but also with Eminente baba. “It was a stylistic exercise forced on the occasion. I’m not a fan of frames. But there, of course, with Eminente, Baba was a must. And the request was perfect because I created it with my pastry chef Shin Raye. We started from this base to realize Casa Eminente.” What a delicious way to end dinner before joining in! talkative continue this evening in the Caribbean of dreams.
Casa Eminente, 6, rue Goumene, 75004 Paris. Hours, prices and reservations: casaeminente.com
Source: Le Figaro
