Aurora collection. Tasaki / press photo
Jeweler Tasaki is known for its modern associations of pearl and diamond. The absolute diamond specialist within the Japanese house is called Masanobu Ebisutani. Madame Figaro met him in London.
True to the excellence inherent in Japanese culture, Tasaki Jewelry House owns the quality of its pearls by owning its own pearl farms and cutting its own diamonds. This is how it received the Triple Excellent grade, which crowns its exceptional know-how in the three areas of proportion, polish and symmetry. Behind this masterful trick is Masanobu Ebisutani, an expert for almost twenty years, and the first diamond maker to receive accreditation from Israel.
In the video, in all its beauty, the face ornament
Madame Figaro: How did you become passionate about diamonds?
Masanobu Ebisutani. I have always wanted to live abroad since I was very young. To achieve this dream, I had to find a way to explore the world. I thought about many options, then I met a gemologist who told me about diamonds, and I was fascinated. I started studying with the best teacher in Japan and moved to Israel to improve myself.
Tasaki diamonds are graded “Triple Excellent”. How did you achieve this feat?
At Tasaki and Japanese culture, we strive for perfection. We simply wanted to offer our customers the best diamond quality, which is why we developed the triple standard of excellent cut and premium quality diamonds for a brand recognized by De Beers and GIA. (Gemological Institute of America, the organization that certifies all diamonds in the world, editor’s note). The “Triple Excellent” standard is higher than the standards of this institute.
Before achieving this standard, how did the House of Tasaki decide to combine pearls and diamonds?
The common point between the two is that we take care of the entire production of our jewelry, from the raw material to the final piece. In gemology, it is said that the queen of precious stones is the pearl, and the king is none other than the diamond. It was therefore normal to bind them. It conveys a romantic message, the marriage of a soft pearl with a rough stone like a diamond. It is the quintessential display of Tasaki know-how and is part of the brand’s DNA.
In gemology, it is said that the queen of precious stones is the pearl, and the king is none other than the diamond.
Masanobu Ebisutani
What was the origin of the diamond in Tasaki?
It all started in 1954 with pearl jewelry. In 1988, our founder, Shunsaku Tasaki, wanted to connect the pearl with the diamond. So he sent me to Israel to improve. I stayed there for thirteen years. I became a full member of the Israel Diamond Exchange in 1991. I was then president of Tasaki Israel in 1993. Since we grow our own pearls on our farms, it made sense that we selected diamonds from the De Beers group and cut them in-house. My goal was to get the title”bearer of vision» (which can be translated as “those who have the right to see”, editor’s note) From the De Beers group, made in 1994. In 2002, I returned to Japan. Since then we have our workshop in Kobe.
Where are your craftsmen trained?
The training takes place in our workshops in Kobe. But it is important that they travel the world to improve their skills. They participate in the most famous international seminars organized by GIA. This sharing of knowledge ensures technical excellence.
What are the qualities of a good diamond maker?
First of all, it is important to note that the most important feature for practicing this profession is the confidence it inspires in its interlocutor. Next comes eye and touch.
How did you get your status?
Before getting a license to practice, I was subjected to a lie detector and handwriting analysis, then a psychological interview. We are among those who have access to the best gems available to them thanks to our status as a De Beers partner, with whom we work exclusively. Kimberley’s process (1) is certainly respected. When we have a diamond in the rough, it usually takes 4.5 months to cut. This process is done through software that I have implemented with my teams.
Before getting my license to practice, I was subjected to a lie detector and handwriting analysis
Masanobu Ebisutani
How do you work with the creative studio and your art director Prabal Gurung?
Designers come up with an idea, then we have to bring it to life. It’s a true synergy between the design studio and the artisans. For example, for Rebellion’s fine cut, one of our designers, Thakun Panichgul, had the idea of turning the diamond inside out. It may sound simple, but to achieve this, you would have to add more facets to the diamond to guarantee its brilliance. It made us push our boundaries and think differently as diamond makers. There’s also a Danger size, and we’ll be introducing a third size soon.
What is the most exclusive diamond used in Tasaki?
There’s a story about the diamond in the rough that DeBeers introduced to us for our brand’s 45th anniversary. It was 45 carats in total. I will never forget him. Of course we took good care of it, but I can’t give more information about it.
Protect hands and eyes
What do you think about synthetic diamonds and do you plan to develop them?
It’s a different job than what we do. I fell in love with diamonds for one reason: their history and natural origins. Each diamond is different and when I touch them they tell me a story. It’s poetry. I don’t think you can experience the same feelings with synthetic diamonds.
Your hands and eyes are insured, why?
These are my main working tools. As I get older and have my own job and responsibilities, I really have to take care of myself. I do yoga for flexibility, mental training, and mindfulness, and I don’t drink alcohol often to stay fit and healthy.
(1) This system is an international certification to prevent the import and export of rough diamonds used to finance war against legitimate governments. But it is important to comply with the law in all areas, as well as compliance with anti-corruption and anti-money laundering, health and safety, labor standards and environmental requirements.
Source: Le Figaro
