Backstage at the Paris Fashion Week show, Dior Makeup Creative and Image Director Peter Phillips gives us his tips for achieving this Roaring Twenties-inspired look.
Braided hair, carved heart pens on the forehead, elongated eyebrows and black painted eyes. The makeup and hair at the Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023 show paid vibrant homage to Josephine Baker’s iconic look. Retro makeover, where the focus was especially on the eyes. “It’s very ‘Roaring Twenties’ in spirit with a ‘jazzy’ accent underground that I envisioned a look highlighted by black shadows mixed with silver, all transparent. It’s a slightly raw smoky eye that plays on lighting effects and adds mystery,” describes Peter Phillips, creative and image director of makeup at Dior. Behind the scenes of the show, the expert reveals his techniques for easily reproducing it and making it last the rest of the night.
In the video: Dior spring-summer 2023 show in the footsteps of Josephine Baker
Madame Figaro:What inspired you to create this makeup?
Peter Phillips.-Maria Grazia (Chiuri, Artistic Director of Dior, Editor’s Note) sent me a photo of Josephine Baker. I was inspired by this ‘jazzy’ nightclub atmosphere of the 20s and 30s, this ‘underground’ scene that celebrated strong and expressive women who lived for their art. I copied this to create a smoky eye and a shimmery shade. The “shiny” effect on the skin is to create moisture similar to the environment during these evenings at the dance club. And there’s nothing more representative of the 20s than the smoky eye. This combination creates a perfect match.
Madame Figaro:How did you redefine this basic makeup look?
Peter Phillips.- I was all for transparency and brightness. I drew only the edge of the eye, the roots of the eyelashes and the outer corner of the eyes with a black pencil. Then, with a soft eyeshadow brush, I applied a black shadow on the upper lid, extending the gesture to the temples. I open the eye, highlighting the level of the eyelashes of the lower eyelid with the same makeup. I then added a touch of silver to the inner corner of the eye. I didn’t use mascara, just curled my lashes. In the end, I just enhanced the eyebrows by brushing them and lengthening them a little, like in the 20s and 30s.
If it moves a little on the eyelid, then it is normal. This is what creates the magic of this makeup
Peter Phillips, Creative and Image Director, Dior Makeup
Madame Figaro: Your tip for keeping this smoky eye until dawn?
Peter Phillips.- Add a little moisturizer to an eye brush and apply the mixture directly to the lid. It sets makeup well and creates a beautiful glow. The material becomes a little greasy, slides into the folds. If it moves a little on the eyelid, then it is normal. This is what creates the magic of this makeup.
Madame Figaro:This ‘vibrant’ and impermanent makeup look that glides across the lid is bold.
Peter Phillips.-The result is a halo that’s dark and fiery at the same time, a little raw, without too much primer. It is not difficult to make as you can almost do it with your fingers. And it stays on your face well, thanks to that slightly “sweat-smeared” effect. This is a very flattering makeup. It’s something anyone can do… as long as you’re not too expensive.
Video: Dior haute couture show
Source: Le Figaro
