In this dense jungle of the Mexican Caribbean peninsula, on the border with Belize, Bacalar looms like an oasis. This small town of around 50,000 inhabitants, famous for its crystal clear freshwater lagoon that stretches for about forty kilometers, attracts fans of paddling, kayaking and swimming in calm waters. Although there are some charming restaurants downtown and an old Spanish fort overlooking the bay, Bacalar is primarily a nature-based beach resort where people come to relax, swim, and contemplate the surrounding flora and fauna.
Explore the bay
The sea cover in total extends over 42 km and owes its color gradations to the variability of the depth level. Closer trips are quite possible by kayak, on the other hand, the boat option is definitely recommended for longer distances unless you are specially trained. From Bacalar, let yourself be carried away by the crystal clear waters of the gentle current of Los Rapidos. Try the quicksand at the Chuck Estuary, also known as “Canal de los Pirates,” an area where visitors get muddied head-to-toe in muddy sand—locals call it “Mayan stratification.” Composed of sulfur, among other things, the granules exfoliate dead skin, but also absorb all the chemicals in creams and other sunscreens. If the experience tempts you, try to be aware of it. If you manage to continue the trek to Khul-Ha, a village very close to the border with Belize, you will have a good idea of the surroundings.
- Our advice
All establishments along the bay offer kayak rentals. The agency “Tour paseo en Lancha”, located a hundred meters south of Cenote Negro, offers shared boat trips for 400 MXN (€20)/person for a 2h 30 ride to discover the lagoon and its three cenotes. The agency offers the same private boat trip for 4,000 MXN (€200) for up to 12 people. Contact: +52 983 107 9809.
Explore the cenotes
Connected to the bay, several cenotes are accessible by boat, kayak or land. Very popular, Cocalitos cenote of a striking aqua-green color is marked by more or less impressive stromatolites. Nearby, the deep water of Cenote Azul takes on a dark hue without losing its clarity, while Cenote Esmeralda, enthroned in the middle of the lagoon, clearly stands out due to its unique color. Finally, Cenote Negro is undoubtedly the most impressive in the area. The underwater abyss, which goes from a depth of one and a half meters to more than 100 meters with a diameter of 130 meters, impresses with its intense cobalt blue color, even black on cloudy days, which immerses its visitors in a mysterious atmosphere.
Stay near the water
If the city center concentrates many hotels for all budgets, Bacalar is especially coveted for its establishments in nature, placed at the water’s edge. From the boat, you can clearly make out several docks lined with water lilies, but the cabins and other bungalows, veritable cocoons buried in lush vegetation, protect discretion. However, each hotel usually has a restaurant, paddle boarding, kayak or water taxi rental service to cross the bay or reach the village, and a long worn wooden pontoon from which you can watch the sunrise in absolute silence.
- Our advice
Eco-romantic villas Kúuch Ka’anil. Simple and comfortable bungalows with private access to the bay via a beautifully landscaped bathing area. From €120 per night.
Khaban Bacalar Hotel Boutique. Individual bungalows are carefully decorated with balconies overlooking the lagoon and magnificent swimming pool. A haven of peace. From 250 euros per night.
Observe the stromatolites
These types of small floating rocks are actually stromatolites, delicate living organisms, some of which are fossilized. Consisting of several thousand bacteria, they are important generators of oxygen and contribute to water purification. If they are present in the entire lagoon, it is recommended not to get too close to them (ideally, keep a distance of at least 3 meters) and first of all, do not swim with sunscreen, because the chemical products are deadly for them. According to scientists, the stromatolites in Bacalar are more than 10,000 years old and take thousands of years to recover.
Visit San Felipe Castle
The city has a close connection with pirates. This is what we discover when we visit the San Felipe Castle, located in the heart of the city, a fort built around 1730 by order of Don Antonio de Figueroa y Silva to protect the local population from English pirates, French, Dutch, Africans or from successive attacks by Africans. even the Orientals passing through the area. In 1858, Mayan rebels recaptured the fort, but caste wars caused its partial destruction a century later. The Bachelor’s story is now being reconstructed in a small enclosure of the castle called the Pirate Museum, the rest of which is used for art exhibitions, dance workshops, poetry, theater or concerts.
San Felipe Castle and Pirate Museum. Av. 3, Center, CP 77930 Bacalar. Open daily from 9am to 7pm except Mondays. Price: MXN 50 (€2.50). Such. +52 9838342886.
Practical notebook
GO
From Paris CDG, Air France offers direct flights to Cancun (10:40). From there you can take the ADO Cancun-Bacalar bus (4h30) or rent a car to get around the entire peninsula with ease.
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Source: Le Figaro
