Its rich and harrowing history has rarely put this young country on the stage. Born on June 25, 1991, Slovenia still bears the scars of its history, even in its seaside resorts and alpine villages. Between its Austro-Hungarian heritage and Venetian influences, the small central European republic is a compendium of 60% of Europe’s forests. And almost 40% of its territory represents protected natural areas where it is good to walk. A wonderful playground for hiking and walking, near the capital city of Ljubljana.
Velika Planina, one of the most beautiful mountain pastures in Europe
The high peaks of the Kamnik Alps, about thirty kilometers northeast of Ljubljana, don’t take long to appear lightly dusted with snow. The region is popular with Slovenians, who do not hesitate to climb the Grintovec massif at 2,558 meters in one day (9 hours there and back) before relaxing in a medieval village. Kamnik. At the top of the Mali Grad Castle Chapel, Romanesque in appearance and with its baroque bell tower, the view spans the hills. Polhov Gradecthe valley Tuhinju to the peaks of the Julian Alps. Seen from a distance Velika Planina our next tourist stop, an alpine plateau dotted with triangular huts. After walking along the river for ten kilometers north of the city, a row of vintage cabins appears on the horizon. It’s time to go up to pasture. At an altitude of 1,600 meters, cows graze under the watchful eye of shepherds dressed in leather breeches, straw cloaks and wearing large hats that have nothing folkloric about them. In the middle of pastures surrounded by paths, a hut of sixty shepherds. All of them were destroyed by the German army during the Second World War and rebuilt in the same way. One of the oval chalets, covered with spruce shingles, serves as a museum during the pastoral season. This is an opportunity to taste local cheeses made from acidified milk. The 2h30 hike follows a path dotted with 10 huts and a chapel, Notre Dame de Nigues. Some converted into shelters, others into restaurants, are open from May to September, when the shepherds ascend to the mountain pastures.
Go
Traveling by bus or train is not very convenient as you have to go through Kamnik and then take a taxi to Velika Planina. It is better to go there by car, and even if the distance is short, 54 km, it takes 1h15 to get to the cable car parking lot. Be careful, the road is narrow and winding.
Piran, old Venetian city
At the edge of the Adriatic Sea, Piran appears framed by its famous maroon-red lighthouse, a symbol of the fire that gave the town its name. It remained under Venetian rule for five centuries, taking on the air of a popular seaside resort. The oval square, lined with marble and patrician houses in pastel shades, recalls the heyday of the salt trade. In the center, the statue of Tartini, a violinist born in Piran, elegantly emphasizes the connection between Slovenia and music.
Taking the direction of the beach and aiming for Light point, the Madonna of the Snow Chapel of the Gothic period appears. To his right, on the side of the hill, a path leads to Saint George’s Cathedral in Piran. The climb is steep, but the surprise is there. Against the azure blue Adriatic, the city’s rooftops swing down to the central square. Climbing the 147 steps of the camp, which is a replica of Venice, the view from Piran harbor is breathtaking. Take one last look at the city walls before heading down the cobbled streets in search of hidden churches. Behind open bars, they are the soul of this city. To the right of St. Francis of Assisi, the monastery with its charming cloister is a bubble of freshness away from the beach crowds. St. Peter’s Church. Opposite, Tartini’s birthplace has been turned into a museum.
Go
An hour and a half drive from Ljubljana, Piran is easily accessible by car. It will take 3 hours by bus (3 daily). The parking lots are outside because the city is pedestrianized. The tourist office is located in the town hall, on the left when looking at the palace www.portoroz.si
Bled, a return to Slovenian roots
Lake Bled with its holy island is just a corner of paradise 50 kilometers from Ljubljana. Its relatively warm waters of -22 degrees in summer also make it famous. At the end of the 19th century, a Swiss doctor took advantage of this windfall to open a spa complex that met with some success. Since then, hotels have taken a step back and retained a bit of the Yugoslav soul. At that time, spa guests walked along six kilometers of marked paths bordering the lake and tasted cremsnita, the traditional Bled cake in the Kavarna Park pastry shop, always open. The six beaches bordering the lake are newer. It Capalisce at the foot of the castle is the most pleasant. The water is intense blue, swimming is supervised, and lounge chairs are placed on the lawn. From there, we admire a frame frozen in time. Even Tito’s old house, which has been turned into a luxury hotel, doesn’t seem to have changed, much less his pavilion. Built by a formative architect from Ljubljana, this is where the former president of Yugoslavia welcomed kings and presidents to taste brandy. Gondolas on Lake Bled, called pletno, have this attached side, which is typical of tourist resorts. However, they are made according to the 1590 model and are operated by only 23 families. A bit like in Venice… A tradition which is good as no motors are allowed on the lake. It is better to rent a beautiful wooden boat to visit the Virgin Mary and its famous Bell of Hope Church in peace.
Go
Instead of going by train, the train station is 4 km from the center of Bled, opt for the bus, which is much more practical. It takes 1h40 to get from Bled to Ljubljana. Several connections are provided per day. By car: 50 minutes by car. The tourist office is located in a small office behind the casino www.bled.si
Source: Le Figaro
