He is there, blue, calm, perfect, as if asleep. The Adriatic makes its way through the mountains. It is clear, so clear that it reflects the surrounding peaks and fortresses. Fjord? No, a valley, a river mouth. Welcome to the Bay of Kotor, Montenegro, one of the most beautiful bays in the world.
Writing in the mouths of Kotor is a failure. Couldn’t describe the blue of the sea or the pink of the laurels. One man succeeded. Writer Pierre Loti. It was in 1880, we read. “The blonde blues of the mountains (…), the reds of the pomegranates, the dark greens of the olive trees, and the stone hills above stand out against the sky in the light gray of ash, the whiteness of lava.”
The mouths of Kotor are colors, but also several centuries of Byzantine, Spanish and Venetian influences. Approaches. Interspersed with medieval towns, Venetian palaces and inaccessible coves. On heights, on bare peaks, castles and spectacular panoramas. On the waters, island monasteries, caves and fishing boats.
Kotor and its romantic old town
It is at the foot of the mountains. Coated with cobalt water. Surrounded by huge walls. Kotor is the deepest and most romantic city in the bay. It is accessible through the main entrance, Sea Gate, Mass and Venetian. Or by the old bridge, more charming, which crosses the Skurda. What to do inside? Nothing in particular, get lost in the alleys and head up, you will come across small squares and the Cathedral of St. Tryphon, a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture, two bell towers and Corinthian columns. Kotor was Byzantine, Serbian and above all Venetian for more than 350 years. It’s a treasure that needed to be protected, check out these magnificent ramparts, 1,350 steps and 1.2 kilometers in a corkscrew that lead to the Fort Saint-Jean (€8). Go there at night when the walls are lit up and the sun is setting behind the mountains. There, 260 meters above sea level, you can hear the streets coming alive and the bars playing music. We see the bay, the city and the surrounding peaks, unforgettable.
Perast, its palaces and islands
It is a small village. 350 inhabitants, only one street, white stones. Rocked by the Adriatic Sea. Perast is the moving part of Venice. We park at the top and walk down. On the beach, clear waters, bougainvillea, 16 churches and 17 palaces. It is an ancient mighty city with a rich maritime past. In the heart of the city, St. Nicholas Church, white and tall. It cannot be missed, it stands in the main square. You have to visit it for its treasure (1 euro) and climb to the top of the bell tower, the view is spectacular, you can see two islands. The largest is called Notre-Dame-du-Rocher. An icon of the Mother of God would appear there. It was in 1452. Since then, residents come there every year on the same day to celebrate it. Count about 5 euros to get there by taxi-boat. The second is Saint George, on its natural reef. There is a Benedictine monastery, cypress trees and a cemetery. And still these crystal clear waters.
Herceg Novi, the garden city
Where to enter: the beaches or the citadel? This is the question we ask ourselves at Herceg Novi. Start at Ulica Njegoseva, a magnificent marble-paved street. It takes you to the old town and the main building of the town, the Clock Tower, which is decorated with facades. Herceg Novi is a town made up of alleys, steps and bright squares overlooking the sea. It is the newest city, founded at the end of the 14th century.e century, but with many influences: Venetian, Spanish and Turkish. You must see the Orthodox Church of Saint Michael the Archangel with its white facade, palm trees and cafes around. But also Kanli Kula Castle, a defense building and a former prison. There are messages from ex-prisoners on the walls, and right up there is a view of the Adriatic. Further down, you should stroll along Šetalište Pet Danica promenade, five kilometers along the sea, with bars, pontoons and even a small pebbled cove.
Luštica peninsula, bright and authentic
Secluded beaches, islands and olive groves. You are on the Lushtitsa Peninsula, at the entrance to the mouth of Kotor, one of the most authentic places in the bay, provided you know where to go. When you arrive, leave the first section to Tivat and head west towards the fishing villages. Beach houses and colorful boats in Bjelila. In Rose: olive groves, stone pontoons and a great view of the bay. To the south, the Blue Grove, a nine-meter wall, indescribable light and clear water. There are two options to get there: boat ride or kayak rental. By kayak, take the opportunity to explore the region’s most beautiful beaches, such as Dobrec. The Lushtika peninsula is the center of the mouths of Kotor, with several other treasures, such as Mamula Island, magnificent and uninhabited but rich in history; the castle served as a concentration camp under Mussolini.
The Serpentine, a scenic route
It’s stronger than you. One turn and we stop. Unable to continue. It is the most beautiful road in the country. 17 kilometers and 25 bends. Narrow, steep, striking. The snake connects Kotor with Lovcen mountain. Each bend offers a more incredible view than the last. So we go of course with this view of the bay. Yes, the mouths of Kotor stretch before your eyes: Perast, Herceg Novi and Adriatic. At the Kotor exit, go in the direction of the Tivat tunnel and turn left after the cemetery. Continue for 5 km, then turn left at the fort. The climb begins, take your time. They vote for you. Slow down and let yourself be overtaken. Is there a bus coming from the front? Drag to the side. On the way, stop at local stalls where you can buy good smoked ham and local cheese. Turn right at the entrance to Lovcen National Park and continue along the scenic road.
Practical notebook
HOW TO GET THERE?
It takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes by car to get to Kotor from the airport of Podgorica, the capital of the country. Buses also connect the Podgorica bus station with the towns on the bay (minimum 2 hours and minimum 6.5 EUR). All information at bustiket4.me/.
HOW TO MOVE?
On the road-lined coast, a car is the ideal mode of transport, even if summer can be a consequence. Several bus lines connect the cities of Boca. Otherwise, water taxis are very convenient in summer to cross the bay and save time. You will find it easily.
OR SLEEP?
In Kotor. Kotor is an ideal base for visiting the bay, as it is very lively, located between two coasts and easily accessible from Podgorica. The hotel Hippocampus an elegant boutique hotel with comfortable rooms. From 202 euros per night. Kotor 489, Kotor 85330, Montenegro. Such. + 382 67 04 60 60.
In Rose, Lushtitsa peninsula. the apartments of Klinci Village Resort They are among the most charming of the Gulf. From 165 euros per night. Luštica, 85340 Klinci, Montenegro. Such. +382 63 200 046.
This article, published in June 2021, is subject to update
Source: Le Figaro
