The beautiful Pierpaolo Piccioli has only this word in his mouth. And beauty, that was indeed the question on Friday evening, in Piazza di Spagna, where Valentino’s artistic director presented his haute couture collection for winter 2022. A few days ago, she received us in the Parisian salons of the house, while the little hands, the master seamstresses from her workshops, gave the last strokes of the needles to the parade dresses that promised to be masterful.
“JI’ve always thought that beauty is a powerful messagehe explains. I am not talking about aesthetic rules, physical instructions, but humanity that shines in the diversity of bodies, ages, genders and backgrounds. In these difficult, sometimes intolerant times, especially in Italy, I consider that I have a social responsibility as a designer. Fashion is necessarily political because it is a great sounding board because it can send a message that will be heard. We are all beautiful just the way we are. Some would consider this an obvious truth. But, nevertheless, it is the truth.Pierpaolo Piccioli has made a habit of presenting his collections in Paris, impressing last January with a haute couture show featuring (already) fifty-five women of all ages, backgrounds and body types, from 57-year-old Kristen McMenamy to Gilles Courtlev. The “size 40 model” that the luxury industry is building. The message is better understood if it is hammered home. That’s why Kristen and Jill were still there in the Eternal City on Friday night. Sublime. The first, theatrical, with her magazine editor’s headdress and black tulle cape trimmed with white feathers. The second in a gorgeous, velvet-covered dress with puffy eggplant sleeves and flat heels.
On the magical voice of the English singer Labrinth (author of the clever soundtrack of the series Euphoria ), 102 beauties, women and men, descended the monumental steps in the fading light and walked across Piazza Mignanelli to Palazzo Valentino and its workshops. Occasionally the Pontentino, that light breeze characteristic of Rome, blew through a train of ruffled carrot tops, silk filet skirts, coral chiffon gowns embroidered with a three-dimensional rose of organza and tulle. Haute couture imbued with poetry, femininity without cliche and mastery of colors (from the most naked the most acidic of greens), which Piccioli taught his audience.
“This collection is especially close to my heart. takes the tailor. I christened it “Beginning” because it speaks of this house and my beginning, the conversation I wanted to start with Mr. Valentino’s work. So Rome, where it all began for Valentino Garavani (now 90), who founded his label there in 1959. And Piazza di Spagna as a backdrop, where from 1986 to 2003 Valentino and other Italian designers (Gianni Versace, Giorgio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana…) paraded Claudia Schiffer, Cindy Crawford, Carla Bruni, Grace Jones, Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell At the end of Altaroma, Italian haute couture week. “These parades were open to the public. He says. I remember being one of those kids in the crowd. I wanted to give back to Rome, the moments of dreams and fashion that it once gave me. But without longing, the spirit turned to the future.»
“I don’t like to talk too much about my work. Couture cannot be explained, it is felt. The audience must perceive its magic without additional interpretation. »
Pierpaolo Piccioli, Artistic Director of the House of Valentino
As a symbol, the show opened with a 3D rose jacket in Valentino red taffeta;a tribute to the legendary Fiesta dress she created in 1959– and ended with a series of black and white looks that echoed Roman mosaics. “Nothing too literalconcludes Pierpaolo Piccioli. Over time, I learned to follow my instincts, not to worry about telling. For this collection I was looking for light, lightness and romanticism. But I don’t like to talk too much about my work. Couture cannot be explained, it is felt. The audience must perceive its magic without additional interpretation.»
Source: Le Figaro
