After more than two years of operation, the iconic Cartier boutique at 13, Rue de la Paix is reopening its doors. Jeanne Toussaint, who was Cartier’s creative director for thirty-seven years, imposed on him a taste and vision of femininity. It continues to inspire collections that find their place in their original shell today.
Born in Belgium in 1887, Jeanne Touse grew up in humble surroundings. Her childhood is shrouded in mystery, it is hardly known that she attended a religious school before joining her sister in Paris at the age of 16. “The fact that we know so little about it is a testament to its power,” summarizes Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s Director of Image, Style and Heritage. He fought alone and never complained. »
From “Demi-Mondaine” to Creative Director of Cartier
His extroverted personality quickly blossomed in the capital. she was with short hair and silk pajamas on the balconies of the most famous Parisian cafes and restaurants. She quickly became the muse of artists such as Paul-César Helle or Adolphe de Meyer, and earned the nickname “Pan-Pan” (Panther) for both her sensuality and her tenacious character. Demi-mondaine status, charm and temperament brought her great success, but prevented her from attaining the status of a woman. Around 1914, he met Louis Cartier, the grandson of the house’s founder. Their love affair is thwarted by Louis’s family, who oppose their union. But regardless, he brought him to the House in 1920, convinced of his skills, and appointed him creative director in 1933, thus imposing his vision and talent on the family business.
“the taste of all saints”
After entrusting him with the design of handbags for Parisian social evenings, Louis Cartier gave him carte blanche from 1925 to create accessories for the “S” series (for “silver“or “evening”), such as cigarette holders or compacts, which were true symbols of women’s liberation at the time.
If the gesture of appointing a woman at the head of creation was pioneered by Louis Cartier, then the personality of Jeanne Toussaint goes far beyond her artistic mission. It is the vision of women within society that she upsets and questions. He doesn’t want to just dress them up in fancy clothes, but invite them to gain freedom and independence. ” He has a unique intelligence as his journey is linked to a good understanding of the universes he has traversed. “, analyzes Pierre Rainero. The great names of the time, from the worldly and cultural spheres, caught hold of this modern and exciting philosophy.
If he prefers yellow gold, flat or woven, to give extra character to the frames and to illuminate the stones, then his taste is also in relief. Passionate about sculpting, he loves volume, never forgetting the comfort of movement. Furthermore, he does not paint but visualizes his creations through modeling clay and precise gesture to express the fluidity and expression he wishes to infuse into his works.
Jeanne Touse also deeply loves fashion, which is inseparable from jewelry. He is close to the great designers of the time, has an unparalleled eye for choosing materials and expanding his silhouette. His wardrobe, a model of sophistication and style, is housed in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.
cheeky creation
His curiosity and interest in foreign lands, from India to the Far East, fuel his works. Fauna and flora are another major source of inspiration for Jeanne Toussaint. After the Art Deco period, he turned to naturalism. palm trees, colorful flowers, but also birds, reptiles, big cats, insects… he designed a whole zoo motivated by the desire to set them in motion.
Jeanne Toussaint has a taste for mixing, superposition games, shapes and colors. Bold, it combines for the first time rubies, emeralds, colored sapphires, citrines, topazes, aquamarines, peridots, corals… Beyond elegance, we must not forget playfulness. Jeanne Toussaint is amused by the idea of a woman surprising her by hanging a brooch with the image of an animal or an unusual combination of colors on her jacket. He delights in adding this tinge of lightness to the contours and thus creating interest. The discreet accomplice of all women.
Thanks to him, the panther becomes the signature of the house. With her favorite designer, Peter Lemarchand, Jeanne Toussaint gives it a more sculptural look. Already in 1948, the animal stood proudly and firmly on a brooch ordered by the Duchess of Windsor. The powerful panther never ceases to embody the personality of the House and the woman who wrote most of its history.
Source: Le Figaro
