Chanel’s artistic director Virginie Viard presented the haute couture fall-winter 2022-2023 collection on Tuesday, combining comfort, elegance and an ode to heritage.
It’s rare that Chanel rejects a runway theme from one season to the next. But we have to believe that artistic director Virginie Viard likes equestrian sports. “I’m part of the continuum,” he notes in his intent note, while leaving room for experimentation. That’s why his muse is taken over by a collective of artists. Starting with Xavier Veilhan, to whom he entrusted the staging of the area located in the Étrier de Paris, the equestrian center of the Bois de Boulogne. The contemporary artist, who had already worked with Chanel on his last haute couture show, mixed here his famous references to the 1920s and 1930s, as well as a geometric aesthetic. He envisioned a path crossing the tour with certain wooden elements from the previous parade. An environment in the middle of which we could see Keira Knightley, Sigourney Weaver, Marion Cotillard or even Caroline de Magre.
Chanel fall-winter 2022-2023 haute couture show
Elegant cowgirls
The offer on the podium is crystal clear. basic home tweed lends itself to the image of a cowgirl. Virginie Viard notes that in this collection, “we find suits, long dresses, as Mademoiselle Chanel designed them in the 1930s, close to the body, even if they are quite shouldered here, and pleated dresses, particularly the wedding dress. The lace is also covered, processed, which is not embroidered, but re-dyed. The palette consists of bright green, khaki, beige, pink, very black and silver.’ Everything is worn with a pair of cowboy style boots and sometimes even a cowboy hat in tweed itself. We’re anticipating the spectacular work of the embroidery workshops, with metallic floral prints, intricate pearls and crystal embellishments accentuating evening gowns and voluminous skirts.
bohemian bride
Finally, to close this haute couture show, of course, the bride. This is embodied by Gilles Kortlev, a Dutch model whose rise is unstoppable and who now walks all Chanel fashion shows. Here, she wears a white tulle gown, warmed by an equally white shawl embroidered with camellias, Chanel’s iconic flower. A sketch that invites you to say yes, of course. In complete relaxation.
Source: Le Figaro