More volume, less fine lines… What lips want

We knew it masked, erased, almost forgotten. In 2024, the mouth wants to be triumphant and smiling, but also more demanding. We meet their expectations at all levels.

Moisturize as desired

We color them, varnish them, but it is clear that lips do not always attract all our attention in terms of care. And yet, in addition to being thin, they suffer from water loss 3-10 times more than the rest of the body, and lack sebaceous glands. Which then rhymes with dryness and flaking. “Moisturization is key,” recalls Violette, creative director of make-up at Guerlain and founder of the Violette_fr brand. You can start with a gentle exfoliation and especially then combine the lip stick with the exfoliating oil that you leave to soak in.” Among the soothing balms, Nuxe’s ​​iconic Rêve de Miel celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. This cult product, sold every minute worldwide, remains the #1 natural balm for its comforting texture. The secret to optimizing the effect of the balm.

Generosity. do not hesitate to pour on the outline of the lips during the massage. Especially with age, when fine lines start to appear,” says the makeup artist. Aesthetic doctor and specialist in lip problems Anne Grand-Vincent also insists on the importance of not forgetting the outline of the lips. morning routine : “You really need to moisturize what we call the white lip, which is under the nose. The idea is to treat your mouth as you would your eyes.”

She even recommends applying an eye contour, finishing with the mouth. Especially since with age we also see the appearance of small skin, a cracking effect, layers that create some discomfort. “So we use cosmetic products like Lipikar Baume from La Roche-Posay to restore the skin,” continues the doctor. But also internally, thanks to hyaluronic acid injections. Then I use a skin-enhancing light that smoothes without plumping.”

Increase the volume

The young generation only dreams of full lips. A trend that continues to boost sales for makeup brands, but also fills beauty salons. The influence of social media and celebrities like the Kardashian sisters has left its mark on millennials. Anne Grand-Vincent confirms that demand continues to grow. “It is a really strong phenomenon among the 30-35-year-olds. They don’t show signs of aging, but they want this generous, meaty mouth that rhymes with a certain idea of ​​sensuality. The Russian lip technique (i.e. growth according to height, not forward as with classic injections) is still very popular with its young patients.

In any case, hyaluronic acid, which he injects through a cannula, remains a proven method for the doctor. “The volume integrates into the self-image quite quickly, and after 15 days patients have the impression that their lips have always been like that.”

Relax gently

Other problems arise with age. As the Patyka brand reminds us, over time, lips thin and shrink, losing up to 40% thickness and 20% volume. With a key, wrinkles and fine lines around the edges, the famous “barcode” and a “sharp” smile. That’s why the brand has developed a Hyaluronic lip balm with a glossy texture and triple action (saturating, smoothing and nourishing). An alternative to try before walking through the door of an aesthetic practice. “After 50, there are three reasons why women turn to the doctor. Reduce the bitterness wrinkle that makes you look harsh, erase the thin smoker’s lines and make the silhouette clearer. Indeed, a lip that fades eventually tends to blur the whole face a little.’

In these three cases, hyaluronic acid again appears as a convincing solution for Anne Grand-Vincent. “We just have to adapt the product. There are different hyaluronic acids that are more or less flexible, more or less liquid, which will give a completely different look depending on the patient’s expectations; In any case, the doctor reminds that “as soon as we change the mouth, it is noticeable. But positively, the face looks younger, fresher, more dynamic.”

Technically, retro-tracking injections (with a cannula and in a linear way, for better product homogeneity) will allow to give a little volume without exaggeration, to completely transform the lips, while they point by point, the level of white lips, will aim to reduce fine lines.

And what about the “bar code”? “I finish by injecting a skin enhancer as a filler, at the level of the white lip, to smooth it from the inside without thickening,” explains Anne Grand-Vincent, who recommends not waiting too long to act. For prevention, he recommends mesotherapy and possibly radiofrequency to stimulate collagen. “But when it’s really badly damaged, you have to switch to injections.”

Prevention instead of cure

Will another enemy fight? Bad habits. Indeed, for Anne Grand-Vincent, they can have harmful long-term effects. “Even if there’s a real severity of heredity, all the repetitive gestures also cause wrinkles.” Thus, the specialist points to cigarettes both for repetitive movement and for the harmful effects of smoke on the skin. “And we often forget to protect our lips from UV rays, even though the sun has a strong effect on their premature aging.”

Therefore, we choose lip sticks with SPF (Stick Lip Balm in Oil, Hei Poa or Care & Protect SPF 30 lip balm, exclusively at Nocibé) so that the mouth is ready for any test. As for anti-wrinkle straws, another TikTok beauty fad that promises to limit premature aging, the doctor considers them more of a tool than a true anti-aging ally.

Strengthen your smile

Another technique for prevention instead of cure? Facial gymnastics or facial yoga. “We must not forget that the lips are made of muscles. And so working on them can delay premature aging, but be careful if and only if it’s done well every day, in front of the mirror or by a professional,” warns Anne Grand-Vincent. Bad posture can have the opposite effect than desired.

To stimulate and strengthen the muscles, and thus avoid the weakening that is inevitable over time, Céline Pavouin, the founder of the “Discover Your Face” method, recommends sitting with your shoulders relaxed and gently closing your lips. Then she invites us to push them forward as if to give an exaggerated kiss and hold this position for five seconds. The facialist finally recommends smiling as wide as possible, again keeping the lips closed for five seconds.

As another exercise, she recommends forming an “O” shape with your mouth while pursing your lips. A position to hold for a few seconds before releasing. Another ally for tone. Microcurrent. The expert is a fan of Foreo’s Bear 2 Eyes and Lips for sculpting and shaping the mouth. In fact, microcurrent helps increase collagen and elastin production and therefore tightens the skin while improving wrinkles and fine lines around the edges. Practice daily by tapping before sliding the metal balls around the lip line.

Relax from within

Removing tension also helps fill in fine lines and plump lips. This is where intraoral self-massages come into play. Céline Pavouin, who now offers training workshops, notably at the Hotel Brach in Paris, recommends putting your fingers (clean!) in your mouth to massage in a circular motion along the cheekbones. The idea is to relax the masseurs before continuing the line connecting the jaw to the temple area.

Stretching can also be done during intraoral massage by slowly opening and closing the mouth. Finally, massage the inside of the lips using gentle circular motions as if to erase fine lines. Using the index and middle fingers, we also massage the upper and lower parts of the lips. The last part of the work. An expert’s tip? Take a few deep breaths to relax and release tension.