For decades, models have adopted a serious, self-effacing, even deadpan attitude. Not this season at Chanel, where they rebelled against the public at the June 25 haute couture show.
He was almost ashamed of it. Let’s be clear. in the best sense of the word. This shy confusion that causes a slight blush to the cheekbones and creates a moment of confusion that ends up being quite enjoyable. The lady, though important enough to sit front row at Chanel’s Fall Winter 2025 Haute Couture show, couldn’t believe it. A majestic model, decked out in feathers and sequins, had just looked into his eyes with a mischievous look. However, in fashion, models do not look anyone in the eye. Well, not for long
Since the late 90s and the era of supermodels, sobriety has been important on the catwalks. As in the 1950s, the models are mostly anonymous people in the clothing department. They have a serious muzzle devoid of any emotion. A few designers are an exception. we remember fashion show producer Etienne Rousseau yelling backstage many seasons ago to shy models parading for Sonia Rykiel that “at Rykiel we smile, we laugh.” But in the vast majority of shows, especially today, there is no sense of fantasy. The top looks straight ahead, into the distance, with a funeral face, so as not to ruffle the clothes.
Therefore, we better understand why the elegant woman in the front row was so surprised. True, it was amazing to see these slender young women turning their heads towards us and smiling mischievously. This theatrical attitude owes nothing to chance, nor to a sudden desire to stand out from the crowd; this season at Chanel it’s director Christophe Honoré (Love songs, Please love and run fast!, Marcello Mio) who led the women’s movement responsible for emphasizing outfits.
In the coded world of haute couture, the director broke a few rules to make us dream better. At the heart of Opéra Garnier’s magical decor, pieces made of tulle, taffeta and tulle that sparkled with grace were worn by women who were not afraid to embrace beauty in all its forms. They were all modern in their ceremonial attire, because they had a posture, a look, but also an elegance and something airy. Their gazes, their heads turned towards the guests, was a joyful challenge, a way to tell a story, because the clothes they wore were so good. A garment that hides thousands of hours of work, meticulousness, ruthlessness and tons of talent. This is all that this charming wonder showed.
Source: Le Figaro