The young Spanish designer presented his latest collection on June 20, in the middle of Paris Fashion Week. A chance to ask him a few questions right before the show starts.
The meeting took place on June 20 in the hall of the “Silencio de Press” cinema. There, young designer Arturo Obegero invited the fashion world to discover his sixth collection. The invitation features a photograph of a hand encased in a mysterious red lace glove, ending in red pearls like tears held back from the fingertips. Its presentation is neither a parade nor an exhibition hall, but a film. A short film of several minutes, where the story of jealousy plays out – the waltz of three bodies.
Dancer-turned-models wear new creations by Arturo Obegero, giving freedom to the drama of the clothes. The film is black and white, then red, like the pieces presented. Silhouettes reminiscent of Spain follow one another, a lace dress sliding to the ground, gestural confrontations, and a six-armed totem with a sewing tool in each hand. In the credits, we read that Arturo Obegero designed his collection entirely on an iPad, and the film was shot on an iPhone. Simple ways that are far from appearing like that. A few minutes before the room was filled, the young designer answered our questions.
Madame Figaro – How do you feel?
Arturo Obegero- Good. A little tense, but everything is in place, so I can’t wait for everyone to discover the collection.
Can you describe your outfit today?
I wear my grandfather’s suit jacket, which I keep for every special occasion. And underneath, my signature shirt, Pedro’s shirt. The pattern for this piece also comes from one of my grandfather’s shirts. I love the idea that everyone can have a bit of their spirit and that their legacy spreads. For the rest, it’s pretty simple: very high-waisted pants, like for flamenco, in homage to my country, Spain.
What is your first fashion memory?
I come from a small surf town in Spain. My brother was a professional surfer, he was sponsored by Billabong who sent him clothes. It was the first time I saw and touched pieces that were specifically designed for a specific purpose, namely surfing and the entire culture surrounding it. Surprisingly, that’s my first fashion memory.
When did you know you wanted to be a designer?
When the Internet arrived. I discovered a whole world, all these shows: McQueen, Yoji Yamamoto, Givenchy, Balenciaga and so on. I fell in love with it, I was 14 or 15 years old. It really opened my eyes to what I wanted to be, what career I wanted to follow. And here we are today, fifteen years later.
What are your inspirations?
Being Spanish, I always look to my roots and try to modernize them. There are also works by artists, from images by Serge Lutens to photographs by Man Ray. Fashion itself inspires me, I really love 1950s couture and 1970s style, I think our inspirations are a cocktail of everything we love; so I try to take everything I value and focus on that. their essence, to create my own vision consisting of many visions.
The collection is inspired by Carlos Saura’s film, released in 1986. L’Amor Brujo.
Arturo Obegero
What does your latest collection say?
The collection is inspired by the dramatic film, L’Amor Brujo (The Witch’s Love), directed by one of my favorite filmmakers, Carlos Saura, in 1986. It was he who made me fall in love with flamenco, and with my roots, the one who showed me that we can respect them all while being part of modernity. So we wanted to make a new version of this movie, the current version. Tonight’s film is a mix between a reinterpretation of Carlos Saura’s film and a dive into the process of creating the collection, which is mine.
Is it true that this collection was completely drawn with an iPad, a tablet?
Yes, absolutely! I used to use paper and then a mouse on my computer. One day I went to a meeting with Apple, they saw my methods and said that it is not possible to work like that (laughs). They support young talent and it was important for them to facilitate my work. I had never used technology like this, I didn’t know it existed, but it completely changed the way I work. I already take my collection with me everywhere. Then, the tools are very useful, there are all kinds of brushes that imitate coals, pencils. You can use layers, delete a step without starting all over again. Not long ago I was traveling to Madrid and was able to continue creating clothes on the plane. I see myself working like this for the rest of my life. Moreover, the presented film was also shot on an iPhone.
There is more and more technology in fashion, particularly in advertising campaigns using artificial intelligence. What does this change for you?
Social media has completely transformed fashion. It’s hard to imagine that there was a time when designers and brands didn’t have Instagram, while today everything is created just for this purpose. There is an obsession with going viral, being seen and liked on social media. From my side, even if it obviously plays a role, it is not an end in itself. I try to do my best and collaborate with artists I admire. This is my goal and technology helps me achieve it.
Today, there is a craze to go viral by being seen on social media.
Arturo Obegero
Speaking of artists, you’ve dressed several celebrities like Beyoncé, Harry Styles, Adele, Filipino Leroy-Beaulieu and Carla Bruni. Do you like making costumes?
All my inspirations are artistic, dance, musical. I use them as references and I want people to feel the same energy as these people. When I get dressed in the morning, I want them to walk through the door and walk out like they’re on stage, I want them to be the character that deep down they want to be. Clothes are, after all, suits for everyday life.
Are you looking for power?
I think my creations are a balance power sauce, the one that makes you want to conquer the world and helps you achieve it, and a certain vulnerability, an almost romantic sensibility. And of course a little drama to sprinkle it all over. I always say that my clothes are “minimal-drama” because they are both extravagant and strong, but also quite simple and sober.
What advice would you give to a young designer who, like you, dreams from their bedroom?
I would advise him to go to business school before starting a brand. Perhaps this is what is missing from the fashion education we usually receive; you can have all the creativity in the world, but you need to know how the cogs and “business” behind the brand work.
When you dress Beyoncé, what more could you hope for?
A dress for Cate Blanchett.
Source: Le Figaro
