Hedi Slimane in Celine is a sixties triumph

Off the calendar as usual, Hedi Slimane presented his Celine show this Tuesday, a week after Paris Fashion Week ended. The collection was designed in July and shot in Paris in December. Movie name: “Triumphal Arch” collection. This is the first clue to the house’s founder and the logo that has become the label’s emblem. Flashback. In 1971, Céline Vipiana ended up in the Place de l’Etoile after a car accident. He then leans against the chain surrounding the Arc de Triomphe and notices the decorative ring. The latter will become the logo of the house. In 2018, Hedi Slimane redesigned it with a modernist approach and named it Triomphe. Let it be so.

Former sixties fan

The action takes place today in Paris, at four high places in the capital: the Bourdelle Museum, the Maison de la Chimie (where Hedi Slimane presented his first Saint Laurent men’s show in 1997), the Museum of Decorative Arts and T. Pleyel room. The film opens with a musical box of cinematic notes, soundtracked by young artist Melanie Chedeville, then continues in Sal Pleyel’s rotunda, amid white columns and mesmerizing mirrors. Welcome to the 1960s revisited by the art director in pure black and white luxury. The first part. a girl with her hair pulled back in an impeccably cut black mini dress, a triple row of white pearls, black glasses, Mary Janes and a small black bag clutched at her fingertips. The whole collection plays the same refrain, this season there are no trousers, mini skirts (very mini) in leather, wool, silk or jersey are seen under coordinated jackets, turtlenecks and patent leather shoes on the feet.

Modern baby doll

It is a collection that tells the story of both the first steps on the moon and the emancipation of women, which also highlights the whole grammar of Slimane, this mixture of bourgeois women and cheeky young girls, whose elegant wardrobe is still close to the heights of luxury. During the day, these young ladies wear leather jackets with leopard print on the shoulders, as well as short coats with Peter Pan collars or trousers with turtle necks. Then in the evening they go out in dresses embroidered with feathers or golden stones. Black or white faux fur leggings keep their bare feet warm, and tall baseball caps keep out the rain. These heroines of the new wave, who are always hidden behind their big square black glasses, look very “couture”.sword» without ornaments. But the Triomphe logo is there, very present this season, both on the retro-style small square bags, as well as on the scarves, glasses and shoes.

The first line of beauty

The film ends with beauties with long, “Twiggy”-style eyelashes getting their make-up done in front of a hairdresser. Another shot that sets the stage for starting a new chapter in the house. She launched her first beauty line, including lipstick, Rouge Triomphe, which will be launched next fall. Models in the fashion show wear La Peau Nue natural pink, one of 15 shades in the collection, which will be released in 2025. Also zoom in on the house’s new perfume called Zouzou. cheeky young girls the sixties. The circle is complete.