At Acne Studios, Parisienne is tough as nails

“Do you think a celebrity is going to sit on this bench?” the reporter asks his colleague, pointing to the imposing structure in the middle of the podium. A few minutes before the start of the Acne Studios show at the Paris Observatory on the evening of February 28, the decor appeared as an appetizer. Signed by Estonian sculptor Villu Ianiso, the works of art symbolize speed, allure, resistance – “uncompromising femininity”, according to a press release left at the guest seat.

As the first slender silhouettes emerge, the unyielding tire armchairs that a few VIPs have been lucky enough to sit on take on their full significance. Realize that leather and denim are being reinvented in clothes with a confident cut and bold colors: pitch black, walnut, mahogany or sepia. The palette accompanies the collection for rockers and bikers. Those who wear a leather jacket without pants. The ones that make bodycon dress pleats a desirable trend. Those who even dare to wear their trench inside out, with a high collar that hides half of the face, just reveals a determined look, ready to face anything.

Hard security zone

Leather, denim and faux fur make up the armor. “A booster seat belt,” says Jonny Johansson, artistic director of Acne Studios, about these materials.

There was also power in the voices of the teenagers who chanted the name of rapper Johnny Su of the South Korean boy band NCT at the entrance to the parade. There was no shortage of celebrities in the room: Willow Smith in a crop top, Emily Ratajkowski in a sculptural white dress, Juliette Binoche in an oversized trench coat. Because at Acne Studios, “human power” is also central.