Live from the Labs, New Strategies for Better Aging

“There is only one age – alive,” said Agnes Varda. However, millions of living women over the age of 50 are gradually falling into the world of silence and donning the cloak of the invisible woman. For the few headlines that loudly claim the right to go gray, how many are running away from mirrors or trying to pass it on? In your head, you feel young, even eternally adolescent. Why don’t the flesh and skin follow? Accept your age, a little, a lot, a lot, not at all… It’s up to everyone. But for those who want to mature without rushing, beauty experts are never short of controversy.

Cosmetics straight from the labs

Epigenetics, stem cells, sirtuins, peptides, proteomes, neuroscience, exposure… Cellular longevity has never been more talked about since the pandemic. There is even talk of reversing the signs of time reverse aging. Every anti-wrinkle brand plows its own furrow. We followed several…

Orchid and peptide molecules

Be careful, sensitive question. The theme highlighted by Guerlain excites the scientific community and the biosphere. Frédéric Bonte, Director of Scientific Communications at Guerlain, explains: “Until now, we have worked on cells and molecules,” he explains, “but molecules are made of atoms.” We are now in the infinitesimal, quantum biology, the final frontier. It was found that the cell spontaneously emits biophotons, components of light that transmit biological messages. It is not visible light because it is more than 10,000 times lower than the sensitivity of the eye, but it is measurable with certain special cameras. That’s why we worked with the University of Palacky in the Czech Republic, which is one of the only ones that has quite accurate instruments. We have seen that young cells emit a normal photonic signal, while old cells emit a perturbed signal. Which affects the entire work of the skin. Thanks to the biotechnological extract of orchid molecules and peptides, Gold Nobile technology corrects the resulting metabolic disorders. What does it change? “More complete and faster action on the signs of aging and skin brightness,” answers the expert.

Integrative beauty

At Chanel, we’ve been researching skin aging since 2012. And the heart of the reactor is the innovative Research and Development Center in Pantin, near Paris, where it all began, since Gabrielle Chanel created her first product there. in 1924. Since then. , things have changed a lot, but it’s also a woman, Natalie Volpe, Ph.D. in Analytical Chemistry, who runs this futuristic center of global beauty. “We take into account biological, clinical, biochemical, neuroscientific, sociological, epidemiological, cultural data and more, what Chanel calls integrative beauty,” she explains. More than three hundred researchers and artisans spread across five sites around the world collaborate with universities and start-ups in all fields.”

The brand has also created excellent plant sectors, five outdoor laboratories, to create customized active ingredients such as camellia or polyfraction vanilla planifolia, the star of the Sublimage line. In the new L’Extrait de Nuit formula, it welcomes a flower from Bhutan, the Himalayan swertia, which has exceptional regenerating power. Chanel is also working on more complex models of regenerated human skin. “For the first time, we were able to 3D bio-print skin with spots, which allows us to move forward with anti-pigmentation active ingredients,” continues Natalie Volpe. The labs are also developing mycorrhization, a combination of fungi that helps promote camellia growth in Gaujak (Landes) while restoring the soil. Today, science without conscience is simply the ruin of glam.

Longevity proteins

“Since 2000, we have never seen so many scientific publications on sirtuins, these well-known longevity proteins, not only for skin, but also for Alzheimer’s disease or degenerative diseases,” notes D.^D: Nadine Pernodette, vice president of Lauder research, who has worked on the subject for sixteen years. Sirtuins are present in all cells of the body and have an essential role. They help them produce energy, protect telomeres, fight inflammation, and promote longevity. They have multiple interactions with hundreds of biological mechanisms involved in overall health. Moreover, sirtuin levels are higher in people who age well. There are seven sirtuins in the skin that function at different cellular levels. If we keep them healthy, the skin acts like young skin for longer. We can even reverse its apparent age.” The new generation of Re-Nutriv cream works with the exclusive and patented technology of sirtuins 1, 2, 3 and 6, starting from 14 days.

Plant retinol

It is an anti-aging active ingredient. A safe bet with proven anti-wrinkle performance, durability and shine, but not always very well tolerated. Its exfoliating effect can cause irritation and sensitize the skin to the sun. There are already natural alternatives such as bacuchiol, wild rose bush or pelargonium oil, but Nuxe claims to have found something better: a trio of ingredients that surpass the effects of retinol without its drawbacks. This patented technology combines biofermented hyaluronic acid, organic alfalfa extract and daylily. It is suitable for all skin types and does not require UV protection. It’s found in the new Nuxuriance Ultra range of eight face and body treatments for mature skin. Nuxe with sensual signature. And to prove that the brand focuses on transparency and authenticity, the ad campaign model, 47-year-old Daniela, does not undergo retouching.

With or without additives?

Capsules, gums, powders, sticks… everyone chews or sucks them and it’s impossible to find your way. However, it looks like we need a little help. Novexpert founder Cyril Telling, a self-described “twenty-five-year micronutrition fader,” reminds us that modern diets, even varied, even balanced, no longer meet our needs. For example, 78% of French people are deficient in magnesium. But it’s not as simple as fashion in and out we see everything, the worst and the best. For our expert, who has never had the tongue in his pocket, it is a very easy task to accomplish. You just have to buy powdered plant extracts, which are not always well controlled, and put them together when too many active ingredients interfere with each other. The case was closed in two months. The same cannot be said for the four nutritional supplements Novexpert has just launched for skin and hair. It took two and a half years to develop, and he blacklisted six hundred authorized ingredients to avoid pesticides, heavy metals and plant toxins.

For example, spirulina contains large amounts of arsenic. All designed, formulated, manufactured and packaged in France, all ultra-concentrated formulas are clinically tested, containing bioavailable active ingredients and titrated plant extracts. “There aren’t any incredible active ingredients, but they’re all top quality, not forgetting to remember that micronutrients aren’t everything. It’s a global and long-term approach,” recalls Cyril Telling. He has a very specific diet. Its antioxidant pleasure. Arabica coffee (no pod) with a pinch of green tea and a square of Valrhona dark chocolate (the one with the least lead). And never before 11 am and never after 3 pm. Not too hot water. His healthy superfood. Fermented pomegranate juice.

Should you take collagen?

It’s a big fad here too, and we do it to beautify our skin and remove rust from our joints. It is true that this protein, naturally present throughout the body, including muscles and skin, decreases after the age of 25. Sure, you can use homemade bone broth or fish bone broth every day, as naturist-chef Angel Ferro-Meigt suggests, but there are sexier alternatives. “I was very skeptical,” admits naturopath Aurelie Canzoneri, “but I’ve tested different brands in different doses and I’m convinced of its benefits in certain conditions.” First, you should know that there is no such thing as vegan collagen. He’s either a marine or a stag.

Which is better? The debate is heated. Vegans should choose plant-based active ingredients that stimulate collagen production. Second, it must be completely hydrolyzed collagen or collagen peptides to be assimilated. Third, the dosage. It absolutely must be greater than five grams, ideally ten grams, with a molecular weight of 2000 daltons. There is money thrown out of the window below.’ So read the compositions carefully and wait for at least three months to see results. Oreli’s other friends? Daily Omega 3 and Vitamin C with therapeutic windows on holidays.

The collagen treatment will be tested at (among others) Aime Skincare, Olivier Claire, Apnée Paris.