“A very good raclette is made from raw milk.” two experts share their secrets to ending the approximation;

Raclette is a dish to share with family and friends. This is the profession that will make a person with a cold love the cold (even if it is perfectly possible to enjoy it in the summer). A very pleasant dish, we like it because it is quick and easy to prepare, because everyone prepares his plate in his own way, chooses from the companions of the table, tastes his more or less melted cheese, with or without rind. .. It was in the Middle Ages that the cheese of the same name was born, but only in 1874 the word “raclette” appeared. We often think that preparing a Swiss dish is child’s play, but which potatoes to choose? How to make cheese? What support should we offer? Should we stick to the traditional version or dare to try something new? Answers with Christophe Martin, chef at Le Ramoneur Savoyard (1) and Paul Soulier, owner and chef at La Fromagerie des Belleville in Les Ménuires (2).

Raw milk cheese that you slice yourself

What makes us salivate when we think of raclette is the cheese. “The base of the perfect raclette,” sums up Christophe Martin, chef at Le Ramoneur Savoyard in Annecy. And not just any raclette. “Very good raclette is made with raw milk,” he says. But owner and chef Paul Solier of La Fromagerie des Belleville warns: “We prefer to buy it from the cheesemaker. In the supermarket, you mostly find pasteurized raclette. And no ready layer. “If possible, take it from the incision and cut it yourself. Already cut and vacuum packed, it will lose its firmness and freshness,” advises Christophe Martin. So we choose a good regional farmhouse cheese like Savoyard. Very classic? “There are many options, for example, smoked raclette cheese, with pepper, mustard… but you can also use reblochon or bleu cheese,” he assures. “It can work with all uncooked pressed cheeses,” adds Paul Sollier. But after that we don’t call it raclette anymore…” For quantity, while the chef at Ramoneur Savoyard recommends 180 to 200 grams of cheese per person, the owner of Fromagerie des Belleville is more generous, counting at 300 grams. eating raclette. And be careful to be reasonable; four slices of cheese for just one potato.

Good cooking

We have all seen someone close to us get rid of scabies. Wrong. “Leaving it makes it tastier, crispier when cooked,” says Paul Solier. Besides, making cheese is a real point of contention. While some like it runny, others prefer it grilled. “It’s best when it’s ogratin. That’s why we use the oven. We put the potatoes in a gratin dish, spread all the layers of cheese on it and put it on the grill,” explains Christoph Martin, who offers an interesting alternative.

The biggest mistake is to cook the cheese too long

Christophe Martin, head of Ramoneur Savoyard

Majority ? “It’s friendly because everyone serves themselves from the same dish, and what’s more, we don’t need a raclette grill.” Adhering to the latter, with small pans, we will prefer cast iron equipment for uniform cooking. “The biggest mistake is to argue and let the cheese cook too long. Then it becomes greasy, it is not edible,” he warns. Otherwise, the two experts recommend a traditional raclette grill with a lamp that heats the cheese, which can then be grated (with a wooden spatula, please). Another tip. turn on the raclette grill 10 minutes before eating and remember to remove the cheese about three hours before. Raclette Party”already because it melts faster, but above all because it has more flavor and character at room temperature,” explains Christoph Martin.

Firm potatoes

And if the purpose of raclette is to pour melted cheese on hot potatoes, then its choice is equally important. “You need a variety that lasts like Bintje, one that holds up best in cooking and has perfect flavor at an affordable price. Agatha also has an exceptional appeal, explains the Ramoneur Savoyard chef. In all cases, it should have solid meat that is preserved during cooking. Fromagerie des Belleville chef Paul Solier recommends a variety of potatoes with red skins, such as Chérie and Cheyenne, and yellow skins, such as Amandine and Celtiane. And shame on you if you don’t leave the skin on, “it’s important,” says Christophe Martin. Already because it provides vitamins, but also because it tastes great fried. And to keep the potatoes warm while you eat, don’t hesitate to place them over the raclette grill in a salad bowl with a few splashes of water.

Cold meat and vegetables as accompaniments

For a fully successful raclette, it is impossible to ignore the paste. And quality. The main things according to our two chefs. Ham (smoked or white), Graubünden meat, kappa and sausage. So we find a good butcher or butcher who cuts the products at the last minute to preserve their freshness and taste. Ramoneur Savoyard chef Christophe Martin’s other important accompaniment: the vinegar option or vegetable pickle. It is made with carrots, onions, turnips, carrots and cucumbers, served in ramekins and eaten directly on top of potatoes.

For Paul Solier, “salad gives a very important touch of freshness.” As for more original options, few dare, but raclettes with seafood or Morteau sausage or even fruit do exist. Our two chefs are offended and agree. nothing beats tradition. “Everybody likes authenticity,” points out Paul Solyer. Now you know the tips and the right products for the perfect raclette, and even if it’s rich and high in calories, you won’t be disappointed. According to two experts, “it’s winter, so we can eat it twice a month.”

(1) Savoyard chimney sweep , 7 Rue Grenette, 74000 Annecy. Such. 04 50 51 99 99.
(2) Belleville Cheese Factory , Galerie de l’Adret, les Ménuires, 73440 Saint-Martin-de-Belleville. Such. 06 49 10 17 11.

This article, originally published on December 15, 2017, has been updated.