Origin, size, freshness… 7 things to know before choosing an oyster

A heavy blow for oyster farmers. This Wednesday, December 27, a few days before the New Year, the Prefect of the Gironde announced a ban on the sale of oysters from the Arcachon basin. A difficult decision, but necessary, because several cases of food poisoning have been reported in France. The culprit is none other than a bacteria called norovirus, which appeared in the shellfish “due to the saturation of sewage and stormwater networks, causing leakage into the natural environment and thus contaminating production areas,” the oyster farmers detailed in a press release. . While the oyster remains a divisive but undeniable staple at holiday tables, questions arise in light of the health risks posed by its consumption. How can you be sure you’re choosing fresh shellfish? Which variety to choose? And for what? We take into account the flarer Fued Kaiduchi.

Recognizing a good oyster…

Like the Sherlock Holmes of the baskets, our master Shaker advises first of all to maintain “fishmonger’s hygiene. and we do not hesitate to ask questions to our fish breeder. So we can see right away if he respects his product. When we have the oysters in front of us, we check that they are not leaking, they should be closed. Another tip, “health label showing approval number, origin…”. After purchase, “if they clack in the bag, they should be replaced; should not resonate when bumped. Otherwise, it shows that there is almost nothing in them. interior or only water”. warns Fued Kaiduchi before clarifying. “It is not the quality of the oyster that affects its price, but the work done.”

…from a bad oyster

Seafood must be eaten fresh, this is necessary if you do not want to get sick. And the first clue that intrigues you is a very strong smell. Above all, the oyster should smell of the sea and the good smell of iodine. If you don’t hesitate, you can always use this simple advice. Pierce the freshly opened oyster with the tip of a knife. If it does not shrink, it is dead and should not be consumed. It is a living product that should be consumed alive.” alert Fued Kaiduchi. In any case, we don’t hesitate to taste before we buy to know how we like them: delicate or special, salty or not, cooked or raw. But our shocking master assures him. “You can do anything with oysters. If the oyster farmer did his job well and respected his land, that’s the main thing.” So buy 4 to 6 molluscs per person for an appetizer or a dozen for a main course, according to our stunner.

Salty or nutty?

Climate, water temperature, salinity, the nature of the seabed and the plankton it consumes are all characteristics that will affect the taste of shellfish. In total, the seven producing regions represent as many different tastes as a sheller can recommend. “The taste depends on the terroir. If you want salty and tasty oysters, I recommend from Brittany, saltier, raw. If you really want to “eat” the sea, you can cook it with vegetable fondue, which you then grate. Normandy is very meaty and salty with a slightly nutty flavor. If you want it even more salty, there’s Bouzigue. Conversely, if you want something a little salty, there’s Charente-Maritime. For oysters with character, we choose Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue, quite salty, raw, with a very long-lasting taste in the mouth.

Is the name fine or special?

“The first question you need to ask yourself is whether you want a meaty or a plain oyster,” says Fued Kaiduchi, to determine the oyster’s filling index. “Meaty people chew more, but in light ones, there will be almost nothing to eat inside,” he emphasizes. They are sometimes found under the terms “penalty” and “special” respectively. We owe this term to Marennes-Oléron, the oyster-growing area that created these two “crus” that correspond to the refinement. While “nurb de claire” is matured for a minimum of 28 days, for “speciale de claire” it is a minimum of 4 weeks. These names influenced all oyster farmers, who thus adopted the term “delicate” to denote soft, not too fleshy oysters and “special” for specimens that are more generous and long in the mouth. “It is better to choose special ones for cooking, otherwise there will be nothing left to eat inside. On the contrary, the fine is eaten raw with a touch of lemon and vinegar, advises the expert.

Variant: hollow or flat?

There are about a hundred types of oysters in the world, but French oyster farming is mainly based on the breeding of two varieties: oblong shape, white, gray or green flesh. The latter are the most consumed. “they represent 80 to 90% of sales,” according to Fued Kaiduchi, particularly due to their rapid growth and great ability to adapt to different environments.

Size: n°00 or n°4.

Then, if you’re asked if you want a #1, 3, or 4, that’s just the mollusk size. “You have to know that size has nothing to do with what’s inside an oyster,” says Fued Kaiduchi. The numbers go from 5 to 1 for hollows and up to 0 and 00 for flats. We kept the weights of time.” And they are inversely proportional. So the lower the number, the bigger the oyster. Therefore, No. 0 is four to five times larger than No. 5. For aperitif, choose a small size like n°5. For a natural taste, we choose the medium size (n°3), which will appeal to everyone, and if we cook them, the larger molluscs, n°0 or 1, will be more suitable.

Red Label or IGP?

Labels and designations guarantee the traceability of the mollusk, the conditions in which it was grown and compliance with various European standards. Marennes-Oléron is the only one to benefit from the Label Rouge and also the only one to benefit from the IGP (Protected Geographical Indication). These, as well as oysters from Brittany and Poitou-Charentes, have a CCP (Certification of Product Conformity). Some regions have also created regional marks to communicate their production method and their breeding area, such as “Gillardeau” after its producer, which can be as strong a distinguishing mark as a label. Happy New Year and Happy Oysters!

*This article was originally published on November 28, 2017 and has been updated.