Panthere de Cartier, an icon that is constantly being reinvented

“During this century, the panther has established itself in strength and stability. By turns playful or predatory, barbaric or benevolent, he meekly, seemingly playfully adapts to the stylistic environment of the time, catching the spirit of the time as willing prey. Much more than a fashion or status symbol, much more than a piece of jewelry, the Cartier panther has become a true cultural icon,” says Pierre Rainero, the jeweler’s director of image, style and heritage.

A symbol of femininity and independence

First appearing in watch form in 1914, the cat, often offered in its diamond and onyx jacket, is ubiquitous in Cartier collections. Originally abstract, it became figurative in 1917 on a collection offered to Jeanne Toussaint by Louis Cartier. Nicknamed Panther, the festive and creative Parisian muse makes the animal her signature. Impressed by her spirit and determination, Louis Cartier invited her to join the house. In 1933, this visionary, emancipated and eccentric woman became artistic director.

Under her protection, the kitten becomes a symbol of femininity and independence. Working hand in hand with designer Pierre Lemarchand, the creative director creates a new sculptural silhouette, a proud and powerful panther of the 1940s. Then a whole tribe of women with strong and outlaw personalities will gather. Will form around a cat, but also animals such as a lizard, tiger or snake. Maria Felix, Duchess of Windsor, Daisy Fellowes, Mariacarla Boscono, Annabelle Wallis, Ella Balinska, Chang Chen, Karen Mok and Yasmin Sabry… the passion is passed down from generation to generation.

A common source of inspiration

Since then, the panther has traveled through the history of the Parisian house. Jewelry, watches, perfume or accessories, it is a common source of inspiration. Its vitality is the result of close collaboration between creative studios and workshops. First, the stains. Their arrangement is not accidental. They convey rhythm, respect the animal’s muscular system, create the impression of perspective or flight… The panther rushes, roars, jumps, stands, twists or lazes. This cooling frame includes a 3D vision, sculptural and anatomical approach to the body. For the silky appearance of its coat, Cartier gives the illusion thanks to its so-called “coat” setting.

Art majors still open up a field of opportunities. Candy enamel, straw or wooden marquetry, gold beads, miniatures, filigree, gold paste grizzly or flamed gold allow us to constantly reinvent the “totem animal”. Among the latest reinterpretations, let us cite the Panthere watch in yellow or rose gold, black lacquered. Or a gorgeous Panthère de Cartier bracelet in yellow gold, onyx, black lacquer with 4 painful garnets. Incredibly modern! More luxurious than ever, it also takes center stage in the High Jewelery Collection with The Journey Commenced Panthere Givrée necklace.