Birkenstock, the smash hit of the sandal that everyone hated

“Trends are rolling in on us,” declared Birkenstock’s CEO Wall Street Journal In 2015 It is certain that German orthopedic shoes do not deny their basics, which are comfort and a look that is not really designed for great luxury. But it’s been a long time since cork sandals were no longer the prerogative of the “German tourist”. “Birk” and particularly the Arizona model (with two buckles) is one of the most coveted shoes. More than 20 million pairs are sold each year, and their success has accelerated since 2021, the year the family business came under LVMH ownership. In short, the world is at his feet, and the stars are no exception.

One of the first to make it a fashion textbook is Kate Moss. The year is 1989, the model is 16 years old. No one knows him at the moment. Photographer Corinne Day immortalized the woman who would become Brindle in a black and white series for British magazine The face. Her look: flared white jeans, a lace top and a pair of white Birkenstocks. The British photographer, who died prematurely in 2010, changed two destinies with this photo: a frail Englishwoman who became the face of a generation, and a pair of orthopedic shoes whose desirability was unquestioned until then. revealed to the whole world. Corinne Day has often said that sales of Birkenstocks skyrocketed after this photo was published.

Kate Moss immortalized by Corinne Day for the magazine’s July 1990 issue The facewhose title is “3rd summer of love” spawned a hippie culture.

On the podiums

It didn’t take much for the creators to get involved. Its massive and comfortable line is now everywhere on the catwalks. His career began with Marc Jacobs in the 1990s and then Phoebe Philo in 2013. He was the artistic director of the house of Céline at the time and did not hesitate to draw inspiration from the orthopedic “tatane” style to dress his models. Its black models, stuffed with a fluorescent cover, are successful. In the process, well-chosen official collaborations followed with Valentino, Rick Owens, Manolo Blahnik, Proenza Schouler and most recently Dior Homme… establishing the priest shoe as a must-have on the fashion scene.

It was even a case study in Central Saint Martins; In 2020, students from a prestigious English fashion school were invited to reinterpret iconic models. Today, the craze has not abated, as evidenced by the presence of models attached to the successful film barbie . The celebrity doll who plays Margot Robbie trades her high heels for a pair of brown leather Birkenstocks. A publicity stunt that had its impact in China. consumers flocked to the popular sandal to rush to wear it (sans socks).

Superstar sole

This transformation would not have been possible without the evolution that the family company, founded for six generations in the vicinity of Cologne, wanted. Since the 2010s, it has changed its face under its new manager, Oliver Reichert, who was then appointed by the owners. In his previous life, journalist and director of the first sports channel, the Bavarian intends to shake the “dark” image of his products without touching the essence of his shoes. “This one is our added value. The goal is to ensure that everyone has the opportunity to slip into a Birkenstock one day or another. Then, generally, we come back to it,” he confided with some foresight Madame Figaro 2018

Five years later, this 2-meter giant is still at the helm of the firm. And always wearing his Birks, summer and winter. However, a noticeable change has taken place. it is now co-owned by Bernard Arnault. In 2021, the famous cork-soled sandal, founded in 1774, becomes the property of the LVMH group, which acquired most of the company’s capital through its family holding company and group investment fund. The crazy rise of this family business does not stop there. the popular sandals are set to make their debut on the stock market. Will we one day see the CEO of LVMH wearing Birkenstocks too? Everything is possible.